For glimpses of Victorians, of which Vallejo has many, walk up Georgia Street to the edge of downtown and head up the hill into the neighborhood streets. It’s a pretty walk. There is a book Victoria’s Legacy , (available through the Alameda Museum) that you can bring with you for a more formal tour of Vallejo’s Victorians, but the architecture is so plentiful that you can just wander and enjoy. The Vallejo Heritage Homes District is one of four nationally registered districts west of the Mississippi River. The District is generally centered on Georgia Street in the Old Town area and bordered by York, Marin, Capitol, and Monterey Streets. Most of the buildings were built between 1860 and 1890 and exemplify "working man’s Victorian", ornate with a blend of styles-Queen Anne, Eastlake, Italianate, and Stick-for a distinctive twist. The Heritage Homes District is as much an open air museum as a neighborhood. There are blocks and blocks of beautiful old homes you can see along your hillside stroll with great views over the waterfront.

Back downtown, Georgia Street is a great place to get a feel for Vallejo. It is the heart of Historic Old Town, and hosts a farmers market on Saturdays. Nearby, you may notice the murals of local artist Harold Beaulieu, owner of the Art Department on Georgia Street. Harold’s murals grace Vallejo schools, parks, and downtown buildings. (There is one outside the Afro-Cuban Dance Studio.) What makes him so special is that he makes himself (and art supplies) available for local kids who want to do art. In fact his philosophy calls for a basic art experience for every child. Harold tells me Vallejo would be a better community if there were projects that involved the kids downtown, and he is doing something about it. His opens the door to the Art Department so young kids come by and pick up chalk to decorate the sidewalk outside. He helps people through tough times at home, encouraging them to build their own self esteem through creating their art. For some he offers encouragement to stick with art, for others he provides instruction on how to frame or sell their work. Perks Coffee Shop in the Gateway Plaza has a student-painted mural inside, and runs an ongoing Art Department student art show.

Harold was raised in Vallejo, and is the only artist in Solano County that maintains an ongoing open studio. His students participate in community affairs through the Art Department, which routinely makes banners for community events. Helping build Vallejo’s sense of community, the Art Department completed an Art Against Violence mural project, and Peoples High School holds the largest high school mural in northern California. "Years ago I started this mural thing as a way of showing the community that kids have a lot of contributions to make, and that paint was an easy and inexpensive way for them to contribute" he says. This year, some Art Department students received summer scholarships to the Art Academy and some full scholarships to the Oxbow School in Napa, founded by Robert and Margrit Mondavi, and Ann Hatch. Last summer, Harold organized a band of helpers to fix a long-time vacant building that had been used as a drug deal shelter. They cleaned it up and hung a young peoples art exhibit in the window, and the building now has a happy merchant tenant. Because Harold’s mentoring is widely known, businesses like Amsterdam Art in Berkeley donate materials for him to supply to his artists. "Art gives the community identity" Harold tells me. I think the Art Department gives Vallejo something it can be proud of.

Mare Island Historic Park Foundation, (707)557-1538

Benicia

Benicia Glass Studios, 675-701 East H Street, (707)745-5710

Camel Barn Museum, 2060 Camel Road, (707)745-5435

Camellia Tea Room, 828 1st Street, (707)746-5293

Captain Blyther’s, 123 1st Street, (707)745-4082

In the Company of Wolves, 737 1st Street, (707)746-0572

First Street Cafe, 440 1st Street, (707)745-1400

Petals, 1st Street, (707)748-5695

Shoreline Restaurant, 1st Street, (707)745-3364

Mabel’s, 2034 Columbus Parkway, (707)746-7068

Napa

California Wine Ship Winery Tours, (707)643-7337

Napa Valley Bike Tours and Rentals, (707)255-3377

Lodging

Best Western Inn, (707)554-9655, provides a shuttle link to the ferry

Ramada Inn, (707)643-2700, provides shuttle link to ferry with chain restaurants nearby

East Brother Light Station, (510)233-2385 www.ebls.org

Food

Liled’s Ice Cream and Candy Kitchen, 1318 Tennessee Street, (707)643-7425

Georgina’s Coffee House, 1505 Tennessee Street, (707)552-5070

Mugg’s Coffee Emporium in ferry terminal, (707)648-0412

House of Soul Restaurant, 1526 Solano Street, (707)644-3792

Banana Q, 301 Georgia Street at Sacramento, (707)552-4327

Tacos Jalisco, Broadway and Texas Street, no phone-open every day from 9:30-9pm

Sardine Can, 0 Harbor Way, (707)553-9492

Waterbarge Tavern, 23 Harbor Way, (707)642-8984