Grace Cathedral, the
second largest Episcopal cathedral in the country, is located on the corner of
Taylor and California Streets, on land donated by the Crocker family.
Interestingly, although it looks like it has always been there, the cathedral,
designed in the style of Chartres in France, was not completed until the
1960s.
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Fountain
of the Dancing Sprites on Nob Hill |
Colorful murals, depicting the
history of both California and the Episcopal Church in California line the
sidewalls of the church. Above the murals, stained glass windows depict
stories from the Bible as well as the saints. But above the long stained glass
windows, there are a series of smaller windows called Human Endeavor. Some of
the prominent historical figures depicted are President Franklin Delano
Roosevelt, Albert Einstein and Luther Burbank.
Both inside the Cathedral and
outside, meditative labyrinths grace the floors. The idea is to walk the
labyrinths and to use them as a tool for contemplation. Also outside are the
famous copies of the Renaissance artist Lorenzo Ghiberti’s "The Doors
of Paradise." The bronze doors depict scenes from the Old Testament.
A short walk across Taylor
brings you to Huntington Park, carved from land donated by Arabella
Huntington, the widow of Collis P. Huntington, one of the Big Four railroad
magnates. A nice playground with swings and slides at the north end of the
park is fun for the little ones. Another draw is the fountain of the
"Dancing Sprites" as well as the "Fountain of Turtles."
The former Flood Mansion, built from sandstone, houses the Pacific Union
Club, the private digs of San Francisco’s movers and shakers.
On the streets ringing the
Pacific Union Club are some of the city’s poshest hotels: the Fairmont,
Huntington Hotel and the Mark Hopkins. A short walk down
California Street is where you’ll find the Stanford Court and also
the Ritz-Carlton hotels. Tea at the Top of the Mark, with its awesome
view of downtown and the Bay is worth doing. Across the street in the
multi-million dollar refurbished Fairmont, the three-course luncheon buffet,
served every day in the Laurel Court, is a terrific bargain at $19.95.
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Portrait
of Mark Hopkins in the Big 4 restaurant in the Huntington Hotel on Nob
Hill |
But if you really want to get
into the spirit of the 19th century, stop by the Big 4 restaurant
located in the Huntington Hotel. The décor will make you feel as if you have
been transported to a fine salon, during the era of the railroad barons. The
restaurant is graced with palms, enrobed in dark wood and leather and contains
many prints, painting and photos of historic San Francisco, the railroads and
the Big Four, themselves. Enticing dishes on the lunch and bar menu are a
chicken potpie topped with puff pastry, buffalo chili, Cobb salad and lighter
spa choices.
To continue your journey, walk
down California Street to Powell and board a Hyde Street cable car for the
Wharf. The cable car will wend its way through Russian Hill, passing the cars
queued up to traverse, Lombard, the crookedest street. One of the most
thrilling parts of the trip is zooming down the steep slopes of Hyde Street,
to the terminal at the foot of Hyde. Alighting from the car,you’re at the
apex of both Ghirardelli Square and the Cannery mixed use
shopping and dining venues.
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Child
plays on an anchor at entrance to the Hyde Street Pier. |
For a taste of history, walk
down Hyde Street to Jefferson Street, to the Hyde Street Pier. The Pier
is especially fun for kids, who can explore a 19th century sailing vessel and
learn about our long seafaring heritage. There is an admission charge.
Down the block on Jefferson, one
of the best places to buy crab in-season, live lobster and fresh and smoked
fish is Alioto Lazio. This woman-owned business sells live crab and
lobster from pristine tanks or cooked and cracked crab ready for your table.
Further down Jefferson, again on
the Bay-side, Coast Marine & Supply is a serious store selling all
manner of nautical tools, parts and heavy rope. But for landlubbers, Coast is
also a great place to buy sturdy Russell fish knives - just right for
filleting your catch or turning a whole fish into steaks.
Across the street, In &
Out Burger has been a hit from day one. This family-owned chain makes a
good priced burger and even yummier shakes.
Back on the Bay side, at Lou’s
Pier 47 Café, blues bands play every day of the week and on Sunday
afternoons. There is a small cover charge and full bar, plus a casual
restaurant downstairs.
Even if you don’t go upstairs
to Lou’s, be sure to make a right at that corner and stroll down Pier 47, to
Scoma’s Restaurant. From the end of the pier, you can get a bird’s-eye
view of Scoma’s fishing boat, when it’s in port, plus other fishing boats,
rigged for crab or salmon, depending on the season.
Back on Jefferson Street, you’ll
pass more fishing boats. In slow times, idle fishermen make their boats
available for informal one-hour Bay cruises for $10 a head.
Continuing along Jefferson, you’ll
pass lots of souvenir shops, hawking all manner of t-shirts and other items.
At Jefferson and Taylor there are several dining choices from the Rainforest
Café to the classy A Sabella’s to the historic Alioto’s No.
8.
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Delicious
crab on display at the Wharf. |
Exhausted from your whirlwind
tour, you’ll welcome the sight of the historic trolley cars of the F Line.
On March 4th, 2000, after seven years of construction, the long-awaited direct
rail link between Downtown and the Fisherman’s Wharf area debuted. The
F-historic streetcar line wends its way from Market and Castro Streets,
through the Downtown area and along the Northern Waterfront all the way to
Fisherman’s Wharf at Jones & Beach Streets.
Hop on an historic streetcar for
the scenic ride back to the Ferry Building or if you have any energy reserves
take the car to the Downtown shopping district or all the way to Market and
Castro, for more adventures.