By Bodo Eichler

As Fall approaches, along withthe Bay Area’s warmest time of the year, a Mediterranean outdoor lifestyle flourishes as does the California penchant for light and refreshing food and drink. For those fond of wine, it is the prime time to enjoy the pleasures of quality Roses. Long disdained by wine snobs as not having any pedigree, and not yet discovered by the folks happily drinking millions of cases of White Zinfandel, Rose wines have been part of the Mediterranean lifestyle in Europe for centuries.

In this country, wine drinking was first enjoyed by European immigrants and those fun-loving priests, with their sacramental wines. Exempt from Prohibition regulations, the clergy helped maintain a core of production for the California wine industry.

After Prohibition, wine drinking by the broad population began to flourish with the introduction of light-flavored beverages marketed to wean the populace away from the ever-addictive Coca-Cola. A British quaff called "Cold Duck" and its many lesser imitators, blazed a trail for entry-level wines. This was ideal for drinkers who liked their beverages cold, fruity and of a color pleasing to the eye. At the same time, inexpensive Rose wines from Portugal, Mateus and Lancer in attractive odd shaped bottles, became a rage of the mid ‘60s through the ‘70s along with those straw covered Chianti bottles.

Introduction of the uniquely Californian "White Zinfandel" by Sutter Home further refined this approach, giving it broad appeal and, most importantly, introduced large numbers of people to the pleasures of drinking wine. White Zin soon became somewhat stereotyped as a favorite wine for women while men felt compelled to stick to traditional liquor and began giving microbrewed beers manly names like Arrogant Bastard or Red Dog.

So, what is Rose and how is it different from White Zin? The pale White Zin is made from the California Zinfandel grape in the style of a white wine. Red Zinfandel grapes are pressed producing a "free run juice" that has only light coloration from a brief contact with the grape’s skin. This process produces a light and fresh-tasting wine.

Roses are made from a number of red wine varietal grapes. In creating Rose, the grapes are allowed to soak with the skins for one to two days. Then they are crushed and the juice drawn off or pressed, then fermented without the skins. This allows the winemaker to give his wine more complexity by bringing out the very best aspects of the grape variety chosen for his Rose. It is for that reason that we have a wide range of Rose styles to choose from. They range from the pleasantly delicate Mateus, to a full-bodied flavor like Tavel.

So, what is an aspiring Rose aficionado to do? Our tradition-bound European friends just happily drink the choice of the winemakers of their region or province. We Americans, on the other hand, are duty- bound by our constitutional quest to the pursuit of happiness to have and make choices. To find a place to start, this will help.

As a general rule, Roses are to be enjoyed while still young. Some of the more complex Roses age gracefully, but after four years are best given as gifts to people you don’t plan to see again.

Very pleasant, popular with the mature and the very young members of your family for their own reasons. Attractive bottle makes a handy dispenser for your extra virgin olive oil.

Full fruit with citrus and floral aromas. Even the self-anointed high priests of winedom at the Wine Spectator deemed this worthy.

Wine with wonderful balance of fruit and acidity. It can be hard to find and pricey but worth it. It is my wife’s favorite.

Dry with distinct strawberry and rhubarb notes, one of California’s better offerings.

Rhone-style grapes, traditionally considered a most full-bodied Rose with the tannins of a light red wine. A very versatile food wine. To be drunk young. This is my favorite.

Dry with a complex blend of fruit flavors. It is lighter than a Tavel. Expensive compared to the others and not always worth the money. But, even savant friends at the Berkeley Faculty Club will give this a passing nod, under the right circumstances, of course.

Last, but certainly not least. A very pleasant methode champenoise sparkling wine that provides very good value and pleasant drinking.

These wines are a good introduction, or starting point, to be able to identify the major styles of Rose. There remains a vast selection of Rose wine from many countries and California counties to explore. My approach is experimentation. Finding a Rose we enjoy, we buy a case. Rose supplies are as yet limited, due to light demand. Style and quality can vary between vintages. Both are real reasons to try, then buy. Rose is a most pleasant accompaniment to any picnic, cheese and fruit, appetizers, salads, pork, salmon or any rich seafood, or chicken when accompanied with a sweet or savory sauce. Rose is simply enjoyable as a pleasant cocktail.

Forget the fancy wine glass!!!! Roses are best enjoyed in a sturdy highball-style glass that fits in a boat’s cup holder. Keep the bottle chilled and the glass half full. Not a bad way to go through life. Cheers!