HerringElusive Gold
|
Stefano of il Piccolo has a
ring side seat |
By Mary Swift-Swan
The herring catch finally heated up in January after a
very slow December. November through March, herring spawn in San Francisco
Bay. San Francisco herring have a golden roe that is sought after by sushi
lovers world-wide. That discovery upped the fish’s popularity and price.
With the reduction in school size for the last sixseasons (since the El Niño
event of 1997-1998), plus heavy fishing due to high demand, the schools have
been greatly reduced. The once unregulated fish declined in numbers, which
gave the California Fish and Game two options: reduce the quotas and shorten
the season or cancel the 2003-2004 season. The plan for reduced catch quotas
will allow the schools of fish to return to strength. In December, very few
fish were caught. In mid-January, things changed. Schools of dense numbers
finally came into the Bay. The fishermen could hardly wait for the fish
sellers in Sausalito to unload their catch so they could get back out there
to catch more.
Boats come in every year from all over searching for the
silver full of golden roe. After the Japanese were closed out of Russian
waters, interest finally settled on the high- quality roe of the herring of
San Francisco Bay. Herring are caught when ready to lay their eggs. The egg
weight of herring normally runs 10 percent of the overall fish weight. This
year, though fewer in number, some have weighed in with up to16 percent roe
weight of high- quality golden roe. The rest of the fish is used in a
variety of products, but that portion of the value of catch does not compare
with the demand for roe.
The downturn in the Japanese economy reduced the demand
and price for herring. Golden Roe of San Francisco Bay Herring is a highly
prized and expensive gift item, but fewer gifts are being given as evidenced
by the selling price dropping. Prices have dropped from a reported $2,000 to
$625 a ton.
According
to the Fisher hotline, there have only been 645 tons, of the reduced season
total of 2200 tons, caught as of January 25th, with an average of 11 percent
roe weight. The fleets of fishermen in the Bay are a spectacular sight no
matter what the numbers show.
There are currently 418 limited entry commercial herring
gill net permits in San Francisco Bay. Permits alternate fishing weeks until
platoon quotas are caught. For more information, call the San Francisco Bay
in-season herring hotline at (650) 631-6784.