So You Want to be
a Travel Book Writer
ELLEN
SEARBY worked on the Alaska ferries as a shipboard
naturalist for the U.S. Forest Service during the summers of
1975-77. From 1978 to 1990 she worked as part of the ferry
crew. Answering questions for thousands of passengers, she
learned what the Inside Passage traveler wanted and needed
to know-and wrote it in this book, annually revised. She
worked several winters as a research analyst in Alaska’s
coastal management office. With a B.A. in biology and an
M.A. in geography from Stanford, a long-time interest in
mountaineering ("I climbed with a lot of good people on
their days off.") and a commercial pilot’s license
(she flies a 1948 Luscombe), she finds the Inside Passage a
challenging place to be. In her spare time she started
SEADOGs, the Southeast Alaska search and avalanche dog team.
She did the
research, wrote, and published The Costa Rica Traveler (new
4th edition, 1997) and the Vancouver Island Traveler. She
has edited and published The Panama Traveler by David
Dudenhoefer. She is married to Henry Jori, a retired
forestry pilot. In 1990 she retired to full-time travel
writing and publishing, and now lives on the family farm
among the California redwoods. |
Bay Crossings visits
with Ellen Searby, author of Alaska’s Inside Passage Traveler
How did a good
Stanford girl find her way to working on – and writing about —
the Alaska ferry system?
I was working in the
Calaveras County Planning Department putting my Master’s in
Geography as well as a Bachelor’s in Biology to good use but I
decided I would like to try seasonal work. The first interesting
offer was the US Forest Service for the Shipboard Naturalists on the
Alaska ferries. I had never even heard of them but I was offered the
job and it sounded like fun and I did it for three summers.
By the third summer
it was clear that the dishwasher was making quite a lot more than I
was and so I went to lifeboat school and got my seaman’s papers
and joined the Inland Boatmen’s Union.
So what was it about
working on the ferry that made you want to leave behind your career
as a city planner?
Well, working on the
ferry was fun. It was tough, but it was fun. I really enjoyed doing
the nature program for the Forest Service and I realized that the
Ferry service needed to provide more information about the system
and how to make the most of it. So many riders were just getting on
at one end and going through to the other end and missing so many of
the things they would have enjoyed if they’d stopped over. So, at
the end of the second summer, I told the director of the ferry
system that he and the division of tourisim ought to put out a
little manual on how to make the most of the system. But the two
agencies weren’t really talking to each other much in those days.
That’s why I went home and wrote it. The first publisher who
attempted to publish it went broke and so I got my manuscript back
from the impound warehouse. The second publisher didn’t know how
to market it, so I took up marketing it myself and that’s how
Windham Bay Press started.
How many people use
the Alaska marine highway?
Around 400,000
people a year and 100,000 vehicles ride it. And this can include
everything from the little league baseball games, trailer load of
dogs and goats and horses going up to the Southeast Fair, frozen
halibut and salmon from the cold storage plants up and down
Southeast Alaska, whatever needs moving. Even the package mail goes
on the ferries and a lot of the fresh groceries. In fact, in Alaska
the ferries are considered part of the national highway system.
What percentage of
the riders are tourists and what percentage are residents?
In the winter, the
majority of them by far are locals, yet I noticed there were quite a
few folks who would get on, particularly at Christmas, and ride the
ferry for a week up to the end and back again, just enjoying the
scenery and the quiet cruise and the un-crowded ship. In the summer,
there is a high percentage of tourists. It’s the way that creative
tourists can design their own trips. A lot of people bring their
RVs, you get whole canoe expeditions or just a couple with a pair of
kayaks getting on. You can launch a kayak within fifty yards of
every dock in the system. And so people will get on with their
kayaks and ride to some port and get off and paddle to the next port
or just paddle a tour around the islands in that area and get back
on the ferry. To give you an idea of how convoluted the coastline
is, there’s one island, Prince of Wales Island, that has over a
thousand miles of coastline.
Take Public Transportation from
San Francisco to the End of North
America
It’s
possible to take public transportation from San Francisco
all the way to the Aleutian Islands at the westernmost tip
of Alaska (just 60 miles from Russia). But don’t try using
your Fast Pass: the fare (about to go up) is $642 for the
ferry plus Amtrak between San Francisco and Bellingham
Train:
San
Francisco to Bellingham via Amtrak (approximately 48 hours)
Ferry:
Bellingham
to Juneau (approximately 36 hours)
Juneau
to Seward (the "Southeast/Southwest")
(approximately 26 hours)
Seward
to Kodiak (the "Inter-Tie") (approximately 24
hours)
Kodiak
to Unalaska (the "Aleutian Chain Trip")
(approximately 36 hours)
Note: The
Aleutian Chain Trip runs just once a month. Expect a
multi-day layover at Kodiak waiting for your ship to come
in. The boat doesn’t linger long once it reaches Unalaska
(the intriguing name of the Dutch Harbor town the ferry
stops at). This is one ferry you don’t want to miss: the
next one won’t come for a solid month. |
What goes into
putting together a good travel guidebook? Walk us through the
process.
The first thing is
knowing what your reader needs to know and that I got the handle on
working for the Forest Service based on the questions people asked
and the things that seemed to confuse them. And in some cases, I use
the actual words that seem to get through to people who are a little
bit tired and on the go. Initially my object was that the book
should be very easy to use on the go, and that hasn’t changed a
whole lot. You should be able to get off when the ferry dropped you
in Petersburg at one in the morning and find what you needed. So I
worked with readable size print and tried to write as simply as
possible and figure that people don’t want to carry an
encyclopedia. I feel very responsible for every pound they’ve got
to carry on their trip. By the way, did you know that all Alaska
ferries are named for glaciers?
Glaciers have names?
Yes! All the
glaciers have names and it’s traditional for Alaska ferries to be
named for glaciers with one exception. The Bartlett was named
for a politician who was important in the early statehood of Alaska,
but all the rest of the ferries are named for glaciers.
How many copies of
your Alaska book are in print?
Around 90,000. The
first one was published in 1978 and I basically I come out every
year with an update.
Has the Internet
changed things for you?
Amazon and Barnes
& Noble.com are major customers. I answer a lot of questions on
AOL.
How did you come up
with the name Windham Bay Press?
It’s a pretty
little bay with nobody there to sue you for using the name, south of
Juneau about 60 miles. Not getting sued was a consideration. There
was somebody with a giveaway fish wrapper advertiser in my early
days called Inside Passage and this guy came to me and
offered to get an injunction to make me burn the whole printing. I
might have called it something like Southeast Alaska but
nobody down here knows where Southeast Alaska is nor do they care,
but now Inside Passage, everybody knows that.
Windham Bay Press
also puts out a couple of other books. We do the Costa Rica
Traveler because I went to Costa Rica on vacation in 1982. At
that point, I didn’t have enough seniority to work on the ferries
in the winter. I had been working in coastal management in the
winter. So I had time off and that was one of the reasons for
working for the ferries, because I could get the time off, as much
as I could afford to live without pay. So I went down there on
vacation and I had a copy of the Alaska book with me. People looked
at that and said, "We need something like that for here,"
because there weren’t any guide books for Costa Rica then, none at
all.