By Bodo Eichler of Quinn’s Lighthouse

Hefeweizen or Weissbeer has been a cult beer in German beer gardens for centuries. The various easy drinking styles of this beer continue to attract new fans and support legions of Beergarden Operators/ Publicans far beyond Bavaria’s famous Octoberfest. This notorious annual Rite of Passage for beer drinkers has introduced millions of foreign tourists to serious beer drinking followed by the occasional monstrous hangover and, surprisingly enough, the desire to seek out similar pleasures when they returned home.

Such vacation memories have created new markets for European-style beers that are enjoying steady growth catering to adventurous and affluent beer drinkers. The emergence of the microbrew industry followed and, after some experimentation, proved that their stuff could provide just as many happy drinking experiences with hangovers to match. The selection of beers available to us now is vast, characterized by regional preferences, state regulations of alcohol content, and container sizes. To get all this into perspective, it is useful to understand the two principal brewing techniques for beer.

Ale is the oldest method of brewing, distinguished by high temperature in top fermentation vats. It was brewed originally in open vats in the centuries before refrigeration. Ale brewing was the basis for seasonal beers, such as Anchor Steam Summer Ale, as brewing could not take place in summer except in regions favored by cold climes, deep cellars or caves.

Ales can be thought of as the "red wines" of beers. Production is more complex, e.g., expensive. The ale beer styles are dramatically different, encompassing a broad range of flavors from white and light as in Hefeweizen, full-bodied ambers, hoppy ales and strong dark brews like Heineken Dark or Arrogant Bastard Ale.

Lagers are created by a more modern method of brewing distinguished by low temperature bottom fermentation made possible through the use of refrigeration, starting in 1856. The Lager method of brewing also provides production controls and is, since it first began, used year round, creating the advent of mass production for beers. The majority of U.S. domestic beers, like Coors, Miller, or Budweiser, fall into this category.

While most ale is brewed from a mixture of barley, malts, and hops, Hefe Weisse or Weizen is brewed without hops; instead, it is predominantly brewed from wheat and some barley malt with specialized yeast that releases natural Phenol compounds to create aromas of clove, vanilla, green apple, plums, black currant, or lemon. Depending on its German region of origin, Wheat Beer is presented as unfiltered, filtered clear, amber, or dark styles. The majority of Wheat Beers are sold as draft, which, to its fans, is the preferred way. The most traditional German brewers also still offer un-pasteurized bottle-fermented styles some of which still have yeast residues in them.

Hefeweizen in its purest form is a well- carbonated cloudy ale with a clove-like aroma and a light citrus aftertaste. There are also very distinct regional styles, which, in the case of Germany, echo the pronounced differences between northern and southern German life styles.

The northern-style Weiss beer is distinguished by its clear color, intense carbonation, and fruity acidity. Its unique brewing style adds a special strain of lacto bacillus (del Bruckii) to the traditional wheat, barley, malt, and yeast fermentation ingredients. Beer brewing in this style started in 1642 in Berlin as "Berliner Weisse." It was later promoted as the "Champagne of Beers" to emphasize its bottle fermented production style and sparkling clear color. There is also a "Bremer Weisse," which is even drier but of a bronze color. Both beer traditions dictate that they are served in low, wide- brimmed glasses mixed with a shot of red raspberry (Himbeer) or green woodruff (Waldmeister) to temper their rather tart basic flavors. Additionally, a slice of lemon is floated in the concoction for added drama.

Given the low alcohol content of this style of beer and the notoriously inclement weather in northern Germany, the serving of a "shot" of high alcohol spirit with the beer became tradition. Kuemmel (caraway) and Korn (pure firewater) remain the favorites. The recent popularity of "shots" of exotic-flavored liquors and beer garnished with a wedge of lemon or lime probably emanated from this German custom.

The Bavarian style of Hefeweizen offers a wide variety of style. Bottle-fermented Schneider Weisse with a light amber color and yeast/ wort residue in the bottle is considered the benchmark. The unfiltered cloudy draft beer version is the most popular in beer gardens and bars alike. This is followed by a "Dunkel" (dark) malty version which I consider the stepping stone from light beer to dark beers.

Unlike their northern neighbors, Bavarians like their beers in tall glasses or "steins" of intimidating proportions unadorned by anything but an attractive head of foam matched only by the decoltee of the always attractive server. Tourists that dare to ask for a garnish of lemon with their Hefeweizen will be admonished that the thing to have with your beer is one of those diabolically hot white radishes (radi) instead. "Shots" with beer in Bavaria--no way! To a Bavarian, a "shot" is likely to be another liter of beer to be savoured and enjoyed at leisure.

Bodo’sSelection of Wheat Beers

Berliner Weisse, northern Germany

The little bottle that packs a punch. On its own, it is really very dry and tart. Traditionally served with your choice of green"Waldmeister"(woodruff) or red "Himbeer" (raspberry).

Schneider Weisse, the classic Bavarian

The cult Hefeweizen to measure all others by. Start with the classic amber version.

Erdinger Weissbier, Munich Bavaria

The best-selling wheat beer in the world . You decide ! Erdinger Dunkel is my favorite.

Franziskaner Hefe Weisse, Bavaria

Unfiltered, with distinct wheat beer flavors of clove vanilla and lemon.

Pyramid draft Hefe, California

Local microbrew that has gathered a well deserved following.

There are many more German and local microbreweries offering their version of Kristall light amber, unfiltered dark and even potent bock versions. The increasing popularity of Hefeweizen beer has paved the way for the introduction of nontraditional bottle styles. It all started when the car gods in Stuttgart acquiesced to allowing cup holders in their exalted vehicles. This put real pressure on the Bavarians to acknowledge that there may be other ways to consume beer than incredibly large steins. Watch out for the introduction of regular-sized long neck bottles in sexy blue colors.