On the Waterfront 

FISH IS WHAT MAKES FISHERMAN’S WHARF WHAT IT IS!

By Alessandro Baccari

Since boyhood, I have been attracted to the charms of Fisherman’s Wharf. It is one of those rare places where history, culture and ethnic pride form a distinctive blend that sets the place apart from other places and gives it a strength and vitality all its own. For over 60 years, it has been holding my attention and garnering my affection.

My acquaintance with Fisherman’s Wharf began when my grandparents took me there for the first time for the opening of the crab season in November of 1937. I still have fond memories of the occasion.

When I was growing up, most of the fishermen at Fisherman’s Wharf were Italian. Because there were so many Italian fishermen, the Wharf was nicknamed "Italy Harbor." Meeting the fishermen was always a treat. Miraculously, they always had candy in their pockets for us children.

Great was the excitement in the mornings when the boats came in deep in fish, grimy and wet, nets in disarray, and the crews tired but lustfully joyous if the nights had been successful. It was exciting to watch the fishermen climb up onto the docks with their legs encased in hip-high rubber boots, their heads covered with knitted caps, their shirts opened at the throat, and their chests bulging with the suggestion of big capacity bellows.

With the outbreak of World War II, silence came to Fisherman’s Wharf. Those who did not have citizenship were not permitted to fish commercially. The United States Government kept them away from the waterfront and their boats. Many had sought citizenship, but since they could not speak English, they failed continually in their attempts to pass the citizenship test.

These are many stories of the rugged fishermen from Fisherman’s Wharf. The old-time fishermen — Pietro Perazzi, Leo Tarantino, and Graglino Rosario — still tell stories about the three patriarchs of "Italy Harbor" during World War I. They had been partners and members of the fishing colony for over 30 years. They were the last of the "felucca" sail fishermen. It was said that two things were certain of these three patriarchs of Fisherman’s Wharf. They would never give up arm power or sail for motor power, nor would they ever teach their tongues the English language. Their lives were circumscribed by North Beach and its inhabitants, and English at the time was not necessary.

Two of my personal heroes were Joe Alioto, who became mayor of San Francisco, and baseball legend Joe DiMaggio. Both were sons of fishermen from Fisherman’s Wharf.

As much as the charm of San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf has come from the fishing industry, it has been an uphill fight trying to keep the fish at the Wharf. Twenty-eight years ago, a Citizens Committee for the Preservation and Beautification of the Fisherman’s Wharf Area was established by Mayor Alioto for the purpose of investigating what could be done to eliminate the danger of San Francisco losing what remained of the fishing fleet that had brought worldwide fame to the Wharf area, as well as economic prosperity to the varied enterprises which had grown up around it. It was my privilege to serve as chairman of the committee.

The basic problem areas uncovered were: the neglect of the fishing industry by the Port of San Francisco; the loss of authenticity brought about by a growth of enterprises having no relation to the original historic character of Fisherman’s Wharf; and the lack of coordinated planning for the area.

As a result of the report, a number of fishing industry needs have been achieved such as long-term leases for the processors, repairs to the wharf and pier areas which were in use, and the construction of a much-needed protective breakwater, which was the most crucial need for the ultimate preservation of the fishing industry and development of the Fisherman’s Wharf harbor.

Today, because of zealous activism, Fisherman’s Wharf is the center of Northern California’s fishing industry and home to most of the Bay Area’s leading commercial seafood companies. The Port of San Francisco recently completed a $14 million renovation to Pier 45 Sheds B and D, transforming them into state-of-the-art fish processing facilities. The same is being planned for Shed C. And in June, the Port opened the new Hyde Street Commercial Fishing Harbor, which has 62 permanent berths, bringing the total number of berths to 190 for the Wharf’s fishing fleet operations. Of significant value to fishermen is a new fuel dock and crew showers. Environmental protection has also improved with the installation of bilge pump-outs and other facilities designed to implement marina best management practices and water pollution prevention.

In an effort to explain the history and current workings of the fishing industry for those who come to visit Fisherman’s Wharf, the Port has developed and set up an interpretive signage program throughout the area. The route designed for this historical walking tour leads visitors to significant fishing industry destinations and landmarks.

A major landmark is the Fishermen’s and Seamen’s Memorial Chapel located adjacent to Pier 45. It serves as a reminder for the fishing industry of the fishermen who have sailed out through the Golden Gate and have never come back. It is a place where anyone of any faith, or none, may pause to reflect on the risk fishermen take and the price some of them have paid. Deep water is unforgiving of the smallest mistake. It can be deadly at any moment for reasons people on land may never find out.

On the walls of the chapel are the names of fishermen from Fisherman’s Wharf who have died at sea. There is hardly a family in the fishing business that hasn’t lost a member or relative.

It is the fishing industry which has given Fisherman’s Wharf its history, culture and traditions in its relationship with the sea. Such uniqueness can be a fragile thing, easily lost when people cease to care, or forget this rich heritage. Therefore, preservation must be worked at. There must always be a community effort to keep the fish at Fisherman’s Wharf.

Alessandro Baccari is director of the Fisherman’s Wharf Historical Society, executive secretary of the Fisherman’s Wharf Merchants Association, and president of the Fishermen’s and Seamen’s Memorial Chapel. He also served as chairman of the Mayor’s Committee for the Preservation and Beautification of Fisherman’s Wharf.