Sausalito - Good Eats and Great Views

By Graceann Walden

Almost thirty years ago, when I was about to relocate to the Bay Area, I heard a weird prediction from a couple of wiseacre New York artist-friends. Here is what they said, "Someone will take you across the Golden Gate Bridge and tell you are going to a quaint artist’s village - it won’t be."

My very first night in California, my long-time friend, MaryEllen, was driving over the Golden Gate Bridge. "Are we going to Sausalito," I blurted out.

She said yes, but looked a little crestfallen, because she hadn’t surprised me. But on that beautiful star-struck night, although I didn’t find any artists lining Bridgeway, I found something quite comforting that made this ex-New Yorker very happy.

Before I knew it, I was sitting on the deck of a place, I think it was called Richardson’s (after Sausalito’s founder). The stars and view are etched in my memory. As I sipped a creamy Irish coffee, I looked across the Bay at my beautiful new home, San Francisco.

In the years to come I would dine at the Seven Seas, Scoma’s and for a really special occasion, the Trident. Many a night, I enjoyed a drink and some jazz in the plant-covered back room at the No Name Bar. And I dug the energy and flirting at Margaritaville, too.

In the modern era, Sausalito hasn’t lost its charm. Aerie abodes still cling to the verdant hills, house boaters of every stripe bob in Richardson’s Bay and the town affords lots of great strolling and shopping.

When it comes to dining in Sausalito, the day-hopper or local has many choices from the budget-oriented and funky Horizon’s to the refined Ondine. But whether you are tucking into a generous platter of crab and Bay shrimp Louie ($16.95) at Horizon’s or a plate of delicate roast chicken and quail egg ravioli appetizer ($11) at Ondine, just upstairs, the view is spectacular.

Horizons is just plain fun. The sometimes boisterous crowd gets well-oiled on the local Lagunitas IPA, brewed only a few miles away. At the view bar, sometimes it looks like everyone is eating crab cakes or slurping creamy clam chowder. We particularly liked the seafood brochettes over a rice medley ($21.95). The food at Horizons is comfort food with a California twist.

After a decade-long hiatus, Ondine (upstairs from Horizons) reopened, serving 

very good fusion food. The redo of the interior is nothing short of spectacular. But in the long-run, entrée prices soared and customers stayed away. Now the food, from new chef John Caputo, is as exquisite as the Bay view.

Caputo infuses the menu with delicate, yet robust flavors of the Mediterranean. Check out the shellfish cassoulet: local fava beans, all manner of shellfish topped with buttery bread crumbs. A lovely Peektoe crab salad is enhanced with avocado, mango and a drizzle of curry oil.

Further down Bridgeway, Christophe Restaurant offers moderately priced French country cuisine in a dollhouse of a restaurant with stained-glass windows, art nouveau accents, Villeroy & Boch china and all the cozy, romantic atmosphere anyone could hope for. The housemade rabbit pate hits all the right notes; the salmon-tuna tartare perfumed with lemon-ginger vinaigrette is another winner.

The kitchen has a way with duck and lamb dishes, and the signature profiteroles au chocolat are delectable. There is an a la carte, prix fixe of three courses for $22, and even an early bird menu for $14.75 Is it any wonder that locals beat a path to Christophe?

Nearby

Both the North Sea Village and Sushi Ran restaurants are local winners each for their perfect presentation of their respective cuisines: Chinese and Japanese.

Marin diners have taken to this Hong Kong-style Chinese restaurant. In addition to the sophisticated seafood dishes for which Hong Kong is known, the stylish and elegant restaurant offers some of the finest dim sum in the Bay Area. At dinner, check out the dried-scallop soup or spicy salt-baked prawns.

Sushi Ran recently expanded into a nearby space, so that, since there is usually a wait, diners can rest in the new cocktail area replete with an inventive sake cocktail menu. Next door, in the restaurant, fresh nigiri sushi is the watchword. Look for lovely tender uncooked prawns, creamy uni and crunchy octopus.

Coming Attractions

In Norse mythology, Valhalla was the great hall of immortality where the souls of slain warriors were received by the god Odin. In Bay Area history, Valhalla was a fun Sausalito restaurant-bar owned by former San Francisco madam, Sally Stanford. Always colorful, Stanford also was mayor of Sausalito for a time.

After Stanford’s death in 1982, the restaurant, located at 201 Bridgeway, became part of the Charthouse chain and recently was obtained by Nunzio Alioto and Rick Jones. The partners hope to reopen Valhalla in November.

Alioto is the scion of the Fisherman’s Wharf Aliotos, who have a long and successful restaurant history in San Francisco.

In the 1980s, partner Rick Jones was an owner of Cafe Americain, a long-gone North Beach restaurant. After selling his interest in 1987, he became the general manager of Greens, the groundbreaking San Francisco vegetarian restaurant.

Alioto will continue to oversee his Fisherman’s Wharf restaurants - Alioto’s No. 8, Nonna Rose and Cafe 8 as well as Valhalla.

The menu will rely on seafood, but also meat and poultry and vegetarian offerings. Other draws for the 200-seat Valhalla will be its 80-seat banquet space, live acoustic music and the great Bay views. We can’t wait!