Barging
In
A Short History of
Liveaboards on the Bay
By
Larry Clinton
|
Author
Larry Clinton near his houseboat home. The open area behind him
is not an empty slip; it’s officially a Sausalito city street,
zoned as such when plans were drawn up for sprawling houseboat
subdivisions. |
In the beginning, there were the
arks – the first liveaboard community on San Francisco Bay.
As early as 1890, San
Franciscans began mooring small vessels in Belvedere Cove, some as
weekend residences, others as duck hunting cabins. Designs ranged from
rafts to elegantly upholstered retreats. One measured 62 feet long,
including a garden under glass. Another was made up of four abandoned
streetcars on a raft. Most had vaulted roofs, four rooms and a galley,
with plenty of bunks for visitors. A few were owned jointly by several
families. By the turn of the century, thirty or forty of these jaunty
little vessels dotted the cove in summer. In the winter, they were towed
into the shelter of Belvedere lagoon.
An English magazine, The Strand,
glowed with praise for the quaint community:
There is an indescribable charm
about the life; one has the pleasures of boating combined with the
comforts of home; sea baths are at one’s very threshold; fish are
caught and cooked while you wait. ...The monotony of the scenery is
varied by the swinging of the ark as it turns with the tide. There are
neighbors, thirty or forty families of them, within easy reaching
distance if one can pull a stroke, for there is always a following of
rowboats lazily resting upon the water in the wake of each ark. The
butcher, the baker, and others ...who supply the needs of daily life
each has his little boat which he sends around every morning for his
customary order, and the joint for dinner and the ice cream for dessert
are delivered as promptly to the ark-dwellers as they are to those who
are still in the city.
|
Arks
of various shapes and sizes dotted Belvedere Cove at the turn of
the century. |
Some families left homeless by
the great San Francisco earthquake and fire in 1906 moved onto their
arks, pulling them up on shore or hoisting them up on stilts for easier
access. A few examples of these unique residences still exist, at Hyde
Street Pier in San Francisco, along Tiburon’s Ark Row, in downtown
Sausalito, and in the floating homes community just north of town along
Bridgeway near Gate 5 Road. One, the Mayflower, will be open to the
public during the September 30 open homes tour sponsored by the Floating
Homes Association (for information check www.floatinghomes.org
or call 415-332-1916.)
The real "housing
boom" along the Sausalito waterfront began during World War II,
when 75,000 men and women flooded into the area to work in shipyards
which had sprung up in the Marinship area. Housing was scarce, and some
of these ingenious laborers created living quarters from old boats and
any other materials they could scrounge. To get a feel for that era,
visit Sausalito’s Bay Model, which is housed in one of the original
Marinship buildings. There’s a graphic display of the Marinship life
and times, and guided walking tours of the historic area are offered
twice a month. (Check 415-332-3871 or www.spn.usace.army.mil/bmvc
for details)..
|
Ark
dwellers enjoy an outing on the Bay. |
After the war, veterans settling
in the area continued the hand-to-mouth waterfront tradition, and soon
artists were attracted to this alternative lifestyle. In the 60’s, a
mix of old beatniks and young hippies began to create a community of
fanciful homes in the old Marinship area known as "the Gates"
– a holdover from the days of the gated shipyards. Combining living
quarters with art forms, many of these homes featured fanciful designs
and the creative "wood butchery" style of the day. Some were
anchor-outs, floating in the middle of Richardson Bay. Others were
beached on the mudflats. Some were navigable vessels, while some could
barely stay afloat. The ferryboat Vallejo became the cultural center of
the community. Shared by artist Jean Varda and Zen philosopher Alan
Watts, it attracted luminaries like Shel Silverstein and Sterling
Hayden, as well as an oddball mix of folks seeking truth, enlightenment,
and a free crash pad.
|
Some
anchor-outs collect flotsam and jetsam the way some dogs collect
fleas. |
By this time, a significant
number of people were also living on boats in the Oakland-Alameda
Estuary and in marinas all over the Bay. Initially, this practice had
been encouraged because full-time residents provided a measure of
security for the marinas. But as housing prices soared in the Bay Area,
the liveaboard lifestyle grew more popular, and problems such as waste
discharge became critical. Many marinas provided on-shore shower
facilities and "honey barge" service to remove waste from the
boats’ holding tanks. But as the liveaboard population grew, these
services were often overwhelmed.
|
On
Richardson Bay, anchor-outs have mingled with "legal"
floating homes since the mid-70’s. |
Concerns over Bay fill, waste
discharge and navigational hazards led to the passage of the
McAteer-Petris Act in 1965 to regulate uses of the Bay. This law
established the San Francisco Bay Conservation and Development
Commission (BCDC) as a state agency charged with preparing a plan for
the long-term use of the Bay and regulating development in and around
it.
|
The
ark "Mayflower" now rests on stilts in Waldo Point
Harbor. Photo courtesy of Floating Homes Association |
One of BCDC’s first acts was
to permit the creation of private floating home marinas to house the
diverse community of anchor-outs and tidelands dwellers. Boat owners
were offered the opportunity to bring their homes up to code and
permanently berth them on docks where they could be hooked up to
utilities and – most importantly – sewer systems. Many took
advantage of the offer, but many did not. Just as the hippies had
feared, a mix of middle class commuters and retirees began to fill the
available berths with new or remodeled floating homes featuring ferro-cement
barges, hot tubs, and full size kitchens. Residents knew the community
had really been yuppified when cable TV was installed.
|
"The
Owl," a classic example of 60’s wood-butchery, still
floats in Waldo Point Harbor today. |
Marin County decided to play
tough with those who refused to go along with the program, leading to
the infamous "houseboat wars" of the 70’s. Evening news
footage showed sheriff’s deputies jousting boat-to-boat with
long-haired defenders of the free-and-easy houseboat lifestyle. Those
wars raged on the waterfront for a decade, and similar skirmishes are
being played out in courtrooms, government chambers, and BCDC hearings
to this day.
|
"The
Madonna," built around an old pile driver, was a Gate 5
landmark until it burned in 1974. Designer/builder Chris Roberts
described his creation this way: "It was a sculpture, that’s
all. And at the same time a place for people who had nowhere
else to stay, a kinetic sculpture in a sense." |
The last of the 70’s era
lifestyle is now concentrated in two main groups: the anchor-outs and
such non-code-compliant enclaves as the Gates Co-Op (an eclectic
collection of 40 or 50 homes tucked among the "legal" docks of
Sausalito’s Waldo Point Harbor) or the Redwood City Marina (known
locally as "Poop Lagoon"). Their continued existence raises
serious health and safety issues. But how to solve the problems without
evicting low-income (in some cases no-income) people from their homes?
These are the thorny questions the BCDC and local jurisdictions continue
to wrestle with today.