Fisherman’s Wharf: Beyond the Honky-Tonk

Classy Eateries, Old Reliables and Some Smart Newcomers, Beckon Visitors and Locals Alike

By GraceAnn Walden

Fisherman’s Wharf has at least two sides. There are the T-shirt shops, wax museum, and the ever-popular fast food outlets, but there’s also the museum at Aquatic Park, our working Wharf’s fleet of fishing boats, and there is a terrific array of restaurants to satisfy the most picky eater or world- weary gourmet.

The television show, Nash Bridges has been cancelled and actors Don Johnson and Cheech Marin have left San Francisco, but their legacy is not the re-runs of the detective show. It’s their Ana Mandara restaurant in which they teamed up 

with chef Khai Duong to create a beautiful modern Vietnamese restaurant in Ghirardelli Square. Ana Mandara has the look of a palatial Southeast Asian home. Past the courtyard entrance, different areas of the restaurant represent the patio, the house and the garden. The space has three working fountains, many handcrafted appointments and priceless Asian antiques.

The chef puts twists on traditional Vietnamese food: tiny imperial rolls are stuffed with shiitake mushrooms, crabmeat and shrimp, instead of just pork. One delightful banana-blossom salad is paired with chicken and grapefruit. As an entrée, no fish is better than the basa, a flaky, moist white fish flown in fresh from Vietnam, served with a simple lemon-perfumed sauce. The pistachio parfait is a nice note to end your repast.

Nearby, Chef Santok Kaler has been turning out reliable northern Indian specialties in this Ghirardelli showplace, part of a worldwide chain, since 1981. The dining room is elegantly and comfortably appointed, with windows overlooking the Bay. The food is as steady and respectable as the restaurant’s reputation promises. Chicken makhanwala, with tomatoes and fenugreek, is one of the more savory curry dishes. Freshly baked Indian naan breads as well as lamb chops and chicken arrive hot from the tandoor.

A short stroll away, diners will find a comforting atmosphere, delicious food and a wine list with deep selections at Gary Danko restaurant. Located in the space 

that formerly housed Chez Michel, Danko added tasteful modern art, light-colored wood and subdued brocade to the banquettes. Diners can choose from a menu that can encompass three to six courses, with portion sizes adjusted to fit the course. For a first course consider glazed succulent oysters with leeks and zucchini pearls in a light cream and oyster reduction. A portion of horseradish-crusted salmon is contrasted with dilled cucumbers.

For a meat entrée or smaller course, the Moroccan-spiced squab sits on a bed of carrots scented with orange and cumin. Again a traditional herb-enrobed loin of lamb is perfectly cooked medium-rare and draped around a tian of tomatoes, basil and eggplant floating on a bit of lamb essence. And don’t miss the cheese cart, presenting a great array of artisanal selections from all over the world. Or patrons can opt just to have dessert, like the chocolate soufflé with two sauces or the classic crêpes suzette, prepared tableside.

The popular Scoma’s presents a menu comprised of all manner of seafood, 

much of it caught on the restaurant’s own boat, moored occasionally at the nearby dock. The portions are generous, and the service is quick. Your best bets are the grilled fish steaks with simple sauces. The no-reservation policy means that a wait is part of the experience, but the wharf-side setting is charming.

At the heart of the Wharf, A. Sabella’s is the quintessential seafood restaurant 

with a long history. When the Sabella family emigrated from Sicily in 1871, they made their living by fishing the Bay. They opened their seafood restaurant in 1920, and today the third generation of Sabellas runs this third floor-dining destination. The huge banquet-style room has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the wharf, while a fireplace warms the bar area.

Special dishes include cracked crab, cioppino, a huge crab-shrimp Louie that includes lobster and avocado, bouillabaisse, sautéed fresh Monterey calamari, and abalone fresh from the tanks in the back, served with a lemon-garlic beurre blanc and sautéed spinach. One selling point is that the kitchen never uses frozen crab. Antone Sabella is a wine aficionado, and many interesting wines grace the list. Desserts are stylish and delicious. The adjacent lounge features a mystery-dinner theater.

Just because it’s been on touristy Fisherman’s Wharf forever doesn’t mean Alioto’s is strictly for the tourists. Locals love the place, especially those of 

Italian extraction, for in addition to seafood, the kitchen turns out one of the best cioppinos in town and such robust Sicilian specialties as calamari topped with a mélange of bread crumbs, garlic and anchovies. The wine list is extensive and well chosen; wine expert Nunzio Alioto is one of three dozen Master Sommeliers in the United States.

Maybe because this family-owned bakery was founded in 1849, Boudin is one 

store that kept the flame alive when the rest of the country had forgotten the goodness of real sourdough bread. Boudin’s loaves get their chewy texture and slightly sour flavor from a naturally occurring sourdough starter, and they contain no added yeast or preservatives. This is also a nice place to enjoy a cheap lunch at Fisherman’s Wharf. The clam chowder in a bread bowl is the big favorite.

Lapis was one of the first restaurants to take a chance on a patch of the Wharf 

that until a few years ago was primarily commercial, not a dining destination. In a space that faces the Bay, the high ceilings, hip appointments and comfy banquettes make it a sure-fire winner. After a slow start, Chef Thomas Ricci has hit his stride. We’re drawn to the mussels, the flat breads and the velvety lamb shank. The bar is also fun, with many specialty cocktails the draw. Keeping with the Mediterranean theme, many of the desserts are enrobed in flaky phyllo dough, drizzled with honey.

So come to the Wharf for its attractions, but bring an empty stomach - you won’t be disappointed.