Forbes Island Coriander Crusted Roasted Salmon With Jalapeno & Lime Beurre Blanc Served with Ginger Scented Jasmine Rice & Blanched Asparagus
Published: June, 2003
Forbes Island is a unique restaurant, even among San Francisco’s 3,000 fine restaurants, and it is reported to be the only floating island in the world. Forbes Island Restaurant actually has an engine and can be driven. Orignally, the Island was a 50’ x 100’ barge that Forbes Thor Kiddoo converted into a home between 1975 and 1983. As owner of Forbes Ferro Construction, Forbes built 100 of the beautiful floating homes in Sausalito. Influenced by 20,000 leagues under the sea, Forbes took his time building his own floating home. It was so beautifully done, that it has been featured on Robin Leech’s "Lives of the Rich and Famous." The hot tub above and grand piano below were cleared away when it was converted into the Forbes Island Restaurant. It opened to the public in February of 1999. When asked, "Why make the island into a restaurant," Forbes said, "The answer to make money doesn’t seem enough of an answer to those who ask. I think from now on I’ll just say it was to feed those who look hungry." He is right. Hungry for something different, hungry to spend a few hours being served a fabulous meal on an island removed from the bustling City-by-the-Bay, yet so close it has stunning vistas from all directions. The ever so slight rocking and swaying palms makes worries all seem so very far away.
To be included in San Francisco’s family of fine restaurants takes a chef with special talents. Chef Art Wagoner (pronounced the same as the famous German composer, though not related) is a fine American cook. Chef Art describes his style as regional American with a classic touch. The very gracious manager, Pierre Marc Bleuse, calls the cuisine French with a twist. Forbes simply says their food is very good. Chef Art uses spices, hints of flavors, and fine cooking techniques incorporated into his special style that reflect the best and most interesting he has learned from around the world. "The feel of cooking here is fantastic," said Chef Art, "but working on an island has unique challenges. Space is at a premium in the galley for storing fresh food. Reservations help to guide volume for each night but we can only make limited additional purchases for spontaneous guests." When asked about the origin of this recipe for salmon, Chef Art said, "I needed a very special fish dish one evening for guests that came in without reservations. What I had was fresh Atlantic Salmon. This creation was inspired by necessity." Now that is classic American. The strength of the recipe is in the way the salmon is cooked. The rest is infinitely variable. This crispy flavorful combination of Forbes Island Coriander Crusted Roasted Salmon with Jalapeno & Lime Beurre Blanc is a wonderful aromatic, visual, and appetizing variation of Chef Art’s creations.
Beurre Blanc is a classic French white butter sauce made with wine and shallot reduction, adding flavorful ingredients to meet the occasion. Start by sautéing the shallots in vegetable stock and then add the wine. (Bay Crossings does not recommended doing this part at home.) He then lit the wine to burn off the alcohol. A bit more time will accomplish the same result. After 15 minutes or so, the white wine, vegetable stock, and shallots will be reduced to a syrup called "Secc." After the reduction, has been started, continue with the meal.
When the rice is near completion, the asparagus is blanched and cooling, and the salmon is in the oven, it is about time for the syrup-like Secc bubbles to become a thickened reduction. Reduce the heat to low and begin adding little pieces of very cold butter. Add cream to the butter which keeps it from separating. The temperature should be warm, not hot, to the bottom of the pan. Quickly adding the small pieces of butter and stirring continually keeps the pan cool. Leave on very low heat, add the jalapeno and lime zest to soak in flavors. Use lime juice to lighten the flavor. Lastly, add salt and white pepper to taste.
Use the flat edge of the carving knife or needle-nose pliers to remove any bones. Rinse and pat dry. Wet the edges of the knife to lubricate the knife for a clean cut. Cut serving sized steaks dipping the knife periodically into water.
Next, make three-cross cuts breaking through the skin and fat layer only on each steak by pinching the skin, drawing the knife gently at right angles to the length of the steak (see photo). Pinching the skin helps minimize breaking into the meat and pierces the fat layer which is a key trick to this recipe. This technique is what makes the skin crispy, very edible, and tasty. Chef Art is a firm believer that salmon skin is very good for all, but for women especially.
Toast whole coriander seeds in an oven on a tray. They can be stored in an airtight container for up to a month. Coriander is the seed of cilantro. It is easy to grind in a coffee grinder when needed. It tastes best ground the day of use. Rub each salmon steak with ground coriander, just enough to create a good crust. If it is not sticking, dab the salmon steak with the dry lime (that was squeezed for the sauce) to dampen slightly.
When the salmon steaks are ready, sear first the meat side then the skin side in a very hot pan with enough oil so the do not stick. When seared, pour out excess oil leaving enough to coat just the bottom of the pan. Place the pan, with the salmon in it, in the oven for 4 minutes. If a larger pan is used in the oven and each steak is seared separately in a smaller pan on the stove top, set the oven to 450 degrees cook 5-6 minutes.
To Serve: Form the rice using a clean tuna can with both top and bottom removed, or a rice form of a similar size, to create a platform for the salmon. Offset the circle of rice on the plate and ladle the Jalapeno & Lime Beurre Blanc Sauce most of the way around the rice. Dot with pureed cilantro and red peppercorns and put a sprig of cilantro on the rice to one side. Lay asparagus to the opposite side and place the salmon steak partly on the rice platform. It is as beautiful as it is delicious, in true Chef Art form.
To get to the restaurant with such unique ambiance, after arriving for dining, contact Forbes Island by a direct phone line located at the corner of Pier 39’s west basin just below the Eagle Café. The Island is moored to Pier 41 and the northwest corner of the breakwater wall of the Pier 39 marina. Although there is a full bar and wine cellar, the island is only open for dinner. Forbes himself often conveys guests over to the island in their wind-sheltered mini-ferry. There are three dining choices once on the island: Eat outside on the sandy shore or deck by 23 real palm trees; dine in a Tahitian room; or enjoy a cozy spot behind the lighthouse and down the stairs where rooms are filled with elegant and nautical antiques, a large fireplace, and a classic wood bar.
Sauté onions, shallots, and optional garlic until they sweat. Add water and remaining ingredients, then leave uncovered and simmer for as long as there is time, up to 4 hours. Strain, then reserve for use in the freezer. Fill at least one ice cube tray for recipes like this where only a small amount is needed. Consider developing a new habit of using a large freezer Ziploc bag to save vegetable cuttings, i.e., potato peels, onion skins (for a darkened color), celery tops, parsley stems, turnip bits, mushroom stems, and garlic greens.
Bring water to a boil. Add rice and reduce to simmer setting the timer for 15 minutes. Chop and sweat slivered onion in a blend of oil. The blend is light but adds a nice flavor. When partly clear, add to the rice. Next chop rounds of fresh ginger root to add to the rice water. Ginger is used to scent the rice only. It is taken out at the end. Cover the pot with tin foil or a lid partly cracked until finished cooking. When cooked, remove the ginger, rinse the rice three times, then fan it out and splash with Seasoned Rice Wine Vinegar, like sushi rice. The seasoned vinegar has a little bit of sugar giving it a slightly sweet taste.
Blanched Asparagus
Drop rinsed asparagus into boiling water for no more than 3 minutes. Carefully remove and place in cold water with ice cubes floating to stop it from cooking. Let sit in the cold water til it is time to plate. Dip back into the hot water still on the stove just long enough to heat, then remove and place on the plate.
Chef Art Wagoner
Due to recent media attention, the shy chef was a bit uncomfortable when we met. After just a few moments, he shrugged and said, "Sharing what I do is a part of cooking. That is what this is all about really. My kitchen is an art studio." I was just lucky to work with several really fine chefs, such as Regina Chargon of Regina’s in Sonoma, a 49ers hang out, and Chi Chi Biniget of New York, New Orleans, and Paris. It was Kathleen Horre of Casa Madrona’s restaurant that was most inspiring. I was her star pupil." He finished with a proud smile that reflected the memories of the many fine people and good times shared with those who have helped him become the inventive and wonderful chef he is today.
When asked about his use of jalapeno and peppery flavors, he shared that his grandmother favored jalapeno peppers. Art prefers their full flavor, which harkens back to his early years of cooking at home. His grandfather was originally from Madrid but moved to California where Art’s mother was born. Art was born in the Los Angeles area. Following a separation, his mother moved back to the Bay Area. Art came with his mother and grew up near his grandparents. His grandmother and mother were both great cooks. Helping them is how he started cooking. "You know, like slave labor." He laughed upon reflection. "I grew up with food," he continued. "It was the main thing. I just loved it. Especially lunch, which in our family’s traditions was the biggest meal of the day." Chef Art began cooking for pay at 15. He left home at 16 and though a student of interior art, he is still cooking and loving it after 20 years.
