I recently went from Tanger, Morocco to Sète, France by Comarit ferry. It was quite a long trip, (roughly over 40-hours) but overall, a comfortable journey.
Two days to relax while en route from N. Africa to S. France
By Mark K. Street, Travel Correspondent
Published: August, 2005
I recently went from Tanger, Morocco to Sète, France by Comarit ferry. It was quite a long trip, (roughly over 40-hours) but overall, a comfortable journey.
A first-class ticket, pedestrian only, in a 2-person shared cabin, costs about $140 US. The ticket includes access to the first-class lounge and eight meals (beverages not included). The trip takes two overnights, and is comparable in price to discount flights from Casablanca, Morocco to Lyon, France. It is an interesting option, if you are not pressed for time and want to try something different.
Getting to the Dock
There is a departure from Tanger about twice a week. The vessel departs leaves at 8pm. Even as a pedestrian with luggage only, I suggest getting to the dock by 6:30pm. The best bet is to take a taxi to the ship. The Tanger port is large and does not have the clearest signage. What seems like a short distance can often be a long way, as the road twists and turns by and around warehouses. Several times you wonder, Am I really going the right way?
Once you arrive at the departure point, the procedure for getting checked in can be confusing. Of course, there are locals milling about who are willing to show you how and what to do —for a tip. But, unlike other parts of Morocco, in Tanger, expect to tip big for the information. I guess some people figure that if you are leaving the country, you might as well leave behind your left-over dirham (Moroccan currency).
Check-in Procedure
At the entrance of the Tanger terminal is the customs office. Walk past it and look for signs to the Comarit office instead, because you must first confirm your departure with the ship, much like an airline ticket counter check-in. The process happens very quickly. Following confirmation, it’s back to the customs line, where you will spend the bulk of your pre-boarding time. Moroccan authorities spend about five minutes with each person. Try to fill out their required forms while waiting in line. Afterward, you head to the ship but note that the system really caters to the people who travel with their cars. You’ll have to nudge your way through to where cars are pulling on-board to show you ticket and passport to the ship staff.
Once on board, go the welcome desk to get your room key and your dining table assignment. Check the clocks at the welcome desk. As the trip straddles several time zones, all ship activity and the dining schedule follows the on-board clock, which is set independent of local land time zones for the whole journey.
Life On-Board
After getting settled in your room, head to the stern of the ship. People congregate here to watch as the ship leaves port, which is usually after sunset. Seeing the lights of Tanger fall behind you under the stars and moon is quite something.
This is not a luxury cruise, but the basics are provided with a smile. On board are several restaurants, a sun deck, a nightclub and a movie theatre. During the day is a great time to be in the sun reading or postcard writing. Many people travel with their dogs, so expect to see canines being walked about the outside decks. As for the ride and the scenery, generally, the Mediterranean Sea has mild waves and is a fascinating shade of turquoise; and you will see many other working ships and ferries as you chug along.
Disembarkment
Arrival time is not based on clockwork precision. Instead, it is dependent on any glitches in the car-loading procedure, and weather conditions in transit. However, travelers should expect to arrive mid-morning on the second day. Pedestrians can walk right off before cars are unloaded and generally will get through customs faster. Customs officers are quite rigorous and thorough. You will wait in line; however, once you are at the front of the line, as a US Passport holder, you should be able to get through fairly quickly. The officers are primarily interested in grilling and catching European day trippers who zip over to buy cheap goods and bring them back, while avoiding taxes.
You’ve Arrived in France
Once through customs, finding a good place to throw your bags down and get a cappuccino is easy. There’s a café right across from the customs office. It’s a good place to meet up with people you have met on board to explore the area. Sète is a small town, and lodging options are minimal. The train station is an eight-or-so-block walk from the dock. If you do not have a lot of luggage, this is your best option, because taxis are outrageously priced (about $10 US) for this short trip.
For a bit more excitement than Sète has to offer, the nearest large city is Marseille. There are several trains that depart every hour. Some are direct and some via Montpellier. The trip takes about 2 1/2 hours and costs about $30 US. Sometimes finding a person with a vehicle on board the ferry (at dinner or perhaps your cabin mate) is a nice way to travel to a destination in common. Drivers are often eager to share the cost of gas and toll fees, neither of which is cheap. Obtaining an International Drivers License from the AAA office in the US before leaving the country allows you to share driving responsibilities on journeys where your joint-destination is more than a few hours away.
Trans-Mediterranean ferry travel is certainly not the most time efficient, and not necessarily the cheapest mode of transportation, but it is a relaxing, sociable way to go, and the experience offers an interesting alternative to air travel within a similar price bracket.
BCM travel correspondent, Mark Street, hails from Milwaukee, WI, on the windward side of Lake Michigan, however now, he calls Berkeley, CA his home town. In his free time, he runs half marathons, practices muay thai, and sails with Afterguard (www.afterguard-sailing.com).
This summer he is living in France, and is traveling through Morocco and Egypt, all the while, looking for opportunities to use his new sailing skills to be part of a yacht crew, and continue voyaging.
