It’s not often that everybody is happy with what is going on, but those in the California wine industry are popping all their buttons right now, with the spreading news of the high quality and high yield of the winegrape harvest this season. High yield does not always mean high quality, we hasten to add, which we all know is true with any product or endeavor.
By Dianne Boate and Robert Meyer
Published: December, 2005
It’s not often that everybody is happy with what is going on, but those in the California wine industry are popping all their buttons right now, with the spreading news of the high quality and high yield of the winegrape harvest this season. High yield does not always mean high quality, we hasten to add, which we all know is true with any product or endeavor.
The Wine Institute has issued a very informative press release about the reasons for this rare harvest. Two important factors are favorable weather and improved care of the vineyards. From our own vineyard touring, it really seems that people in the wine business are caring more for the land and how their crops are tended and treated.
A hands-on demonstration at Quivira Vineyards in Dry Creek Valley (Sonoma County) gave us a good look at a ripening bunch of Pinot Noir grapes. All things had been carefully considered to enhance the fruit: the direction the vines were planted, the amount of canopy provided, irrigation, and even the soil itself — an impressive factor being that proper aeration would create a better "atmosphere" coming up through the soil to the grapes on the vine. This is the heart of new agricultural trend called "biodynamics."
The Wine Institute reiterated what we just learned about wine recently, in our classes at City College of San Francisco: The world’s top four producers of wine (in this order) are France, Italy, Spain and the United States. Guess where 90 per cent of America’s grapes come from? Yes, California. The 2005 harvest should pump up the figures even more. On a side note — California grapes are also exported to other states for winemaking. We found wines in New Mexico, Virginia and Georgia made with California grapes, and surely there are more.
In the coming months, it will be very interesting tasting this year’s crop, and seeing how much we will have to pay for it.
Grape story
There is a wine made in South Africa called "Angel’s Tears." The name comes from a legend about a winemaker completely despondent over the poor harvest that year, and having to make wine with less-than-perfect grapes. But, he put his heart and soul into it, doing the best he could. Late that night when he was asleep, angels came to sample the wine and were so delighted they cried tears of joy. In the morning, when the winemaker found their tears, he knew that against all odds he had succeeded.
Grape catsup — Dianne’s story
When I was a young girl, my family reviewed my headstrong ways with this admonition: "Well, you’ll just have to learn ‘The Hard Way’".
Flash forward to 1981, Healdsburg, where Robert and I were waiting for a winemaker family to show up and have a picnic lunch with us. While we were waiting, a big shipment of Pinot Noir grapes arrived for crushing. Looking over at all those grapes, I remarked to Robert that I had a recipe for grape catsup, and wouldn’t it be fun to take some of those grapes home and make some.
We were graciously given about 10 pounds of the Pinot Noir grapes, and took them back to my kitchen, where Robert kept saying, "Dianne, don’t swear!" Trying to take all the stems out proved impossible, so they cooked in a large pot with some water, refusing to become soft enough to put through a sieve. Somehow, I wound up with something, added in vinegar, sugar, garlic and a lot of spices, but it was a very unrewarding enterprise. A year later, some refined thinking kicked in, and I realized I had done it "The Hard Way," when I could have simply opened up a bottle of Pinot Noir and used the liquid in the recipe. By 1984, I started using Cabernet Sauvignon and all was well with the recipe and in the kitchen.
Grape food
"…our vines have tender grapes," says the Bible (Song of Solomon 2:15); and the ones available at the market are sweet and juicy, and lend themselves to many good dishes. A brand new favorite recipe is for roasted grapes. Yes, oven-roasted grapes. A Spanish restaurant at a major wine tasting gave us the recipe, and Dianne has done it twice, with excellent results.
When adding grapes to salads, be sure they are seedless, remove the stems, and be sure to cut them in half. It is much more civilized. The Joy of Cooking recommends you peel the grapes, and good luck to you with that — we are happy to have them cut in half!
Oven-roasted Grapes
Start with light red, seedless grapes. Wash them well then dry with a paper towel.
Place on a baking sheet, sprayed with a cooking spray.
Sprinkle grapes with red wine or sherry vinegar.
Roast them at 400 degrees, until the tops of the clusters are slightly blackened, about 15 minutes. Arrange on a platter to accompany cheese and/or meats.
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Dianne Boate is a free lance writer, photographer and budding botanical artist. Her photography can be seen at www.danielakart.com. Robert Meyer is a consultant to the wine and spirits industry. They have been sipping and sampling for 27 years. When the Pinot Noir catsup episode took place, she asked very sweetly for a bottle of wine. "Don’t want to use anything too good," he said. She subsequently did not ask and did not tell, just picked out what she really wanted from the cellar.
