Venetian Renaissance

Oakland is not necessarily the first place that comes to mind when looking for a romantic escape, yet, since 1999, Lake Merritt has held a hidden glimpse into the Old World romance of gondola cruises.

Float on authentic gondolas reviving Old World romance on Lake Merritt

By Dan Sankey
Published: September, 2006

Oakland is not necessarily the first place that comes to mind when looking for a romantic escape, yet, since 1999, Lake Merritt has held a hidden glimpse into the Old World romance of gondola cruises.

It’s easy to forget the pleasures of a boat ride. So simple, they fall beneath our everyday wish list of wants, but here is a reminder – floating feels tremendously soothing and romantic.

Gondola Servicio brings you the pleasures of being rowed along with whom you feel most fond, while being sung Italian love songs by a gondolier. They encourage you to bring along wine, champagne or perhaps a small picnic of pesto and cheese to set the mood.

Preconceptions fade quickly as you float away from the dock in an authentic handcrafted Venetian gondola, as do the hurried stresses of your day.

It was incredible, said Karen Richards of San Francisco after her ride. I’ve never been to Lake Merritt before. I never knew how beautiful it is. And the singing was amazing. Mark Pierson accompanied her on a sunset cruise aboard the stretched black wooden boat. It’s very calming, he said.

The fountain and arches at the west edge of the lake add to the European feel, but it’s not until you sit onboard that the feel of the deep onyx wood and ornate brass fixtures truly embrace you.

Authenticity is emphasized: the gondoliers speak Italian, and the boats are imported from Murano (one of the Venetian islands), where they are handmade by Robert de Rossi, a friend of co-owner Angelino Sandri, also, originally from Venice.

Gondolas were the limousines of Venice, explains gondolier Paolo Cosulich-Schwartz. The boat’s smooth glide across the lake surface does feel luxurious, as children wave to you from the shore and the gondolier sings of love.

The gondola has a hand painted removable cabin — a felze— as an option for more privacy if so desired. In Venice these were known to hide all manner of private matters on the canals — secret loves, gambling, even murder. I don’t have any stories like that, Paolo said of his three years of rowing on the lake. Just lots of kissing.

The felze is usually off in summer, as it is quite nice to feel the warm late day sun as it sets, giving a golden red glow to the church and archway on the western shore. At night, the lake’s necklace of lights shimmer and the surface is calm. That’s my favorite time to row, Paolo said, especially if the moon is out.

Last year, for the first time, Gondola Servicio closed for the winter, leading some to believe that the boats had left for good. But it was just for the season, and they may be staying open year-round again after the extensive renovation of the lake’s boathouse. The owners of the Beach Chalet in San Francisco are opening a new restaurant there, too, which should increase foot traffic once it opens in the winter of 2007.

Gondola Servicio also has a proposal pending to run gondola service on Stowe Lake in San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. They hope to know by mid-September if it has been accepted.