Brew Review

The historic pub has a beautiful bar, one with a solid mahogany plank that runs the entire length of the bar, featuring flame mahogany columns against beveled glass mirrors. Overhead is a 1916 Pukka Walla fan, an enormous rotating contraption powered by a small motor via leather belts that looks like a series of brass paddlewheels. One can only imagine the countless saucy characters that have felt its subtle breezes over the years.

The brewery is housed in one of the dining rooms. There are no barriers between the customers and the brewhouse. This required a special exemption from the federal government and made San Francisco Brewing the first brewery in the U.S. with an open brewhouse.

We have a unique brewery system here, says Paul. It’s like a giant homebrew system. Since there wasn’t a lot of room to work with, but the space boasts very high ceilings, Paul went vertical when he constructed the brewhouse. It saved space and allowed him to use gravity – instead of pumps – to transfer the product from one vessel to the next.

The use of time and gravity are important elements in the ancient art and mystery of brewing. Our very slow brewing process and our gravity-flow brewhouse distinguishes our brewing process from that of other breweries.

When I sat down with Paul to taste the six beers on tap, which included both lagers and ales, I immediately noticed the serving temperature and carbonation levels, and the effect it had on all the brews.

Here, we have a very traditional process — we don’t filter the beer. Paul explained. The beers are often cloudy. We don’t serve them ice cold; we serve them at cellar temperature. Paul says that temperature is 52 to 55 [degrees] for the ales and 48 or so for the lagers.

Paul began brewing lagers exclusively. Several years later, he added ale. I added an ale cellar to expand the selection of beer. Lager is much more difficult [to make]. The ale is an easier, cheaper, more consistent, more forgiving product. That’s why most micros and brewpubs make ale, Paul says. The lagers will take up to two weeks to ferment; ale will ferment in 3 days. The carbonation level is subdued compared to many of the modern big breweries. The big breweries want the beer to be served ice cold and fizzy because that creates a taste illusion that tells you brain that there’s something there to taste.

It’s San Francisco Brewpub’s very traditional serving method that tends to minimize any harshness so the true characteristics of fine beer shines through and the higher serving temperatures allow a person to taste many of the subtle overtones that create a much more rounded, flavorful brew.

San Francisco Brewing Company serves Emperor Norton Lager, a Marzen style lager with a notable caramel malt aroma and flavor, which gives it some body and fullness and a smooth and mellow finish. The Pony Express Ale is an English Special Bitter. It has a mild, clean character that can be truly enjoyed due to the lower carbonation levels. The moderate levels of bitterness and alcohol make this well-balanced beer perfect for those who are not used to full-flavored craft brews, as well as connoisseurs of traditional English Ales. Gripman’s Porter also had a mellow character with distinct chocolate and roasted flavors balanced by a moderate hop flavor.

San Francisco Brewing offers a menu featuring traditional pub fare like fish and chips, quesadillas and burgers. They also have limited sidewalk seating, allowing patrons to soak up the rich atmosphere while savoring fine ales and lagers.

Allan G. Paul is one of the true pioneers of the American craft brewery movement. One taste of his beers says why he’s still a major player that San Francisco is lucky to have around.

Joel Williams was a professional craft brewer for over seven years at several breweries. He earned a Diploma in Brewing Sciences in 1996 from the world-renowned Siebel Institute of Technology in Chicago.