Richmond’s East Brother – an Island Like No Other

East Brother Island, an island only three-quarters of an acre in size, sits just off the eastern shore of Richmond in the San Pablo Straits — the body of water that separates the San Francisco and San Pablo Bays.

The 19th Century lighthouse on Richmond’s East Brother Island was restored in the 1970s with the help of hundreds of volunteers and donations. Photo Courtesy of East Brother Light Station, Inc.

Published: February, 2007 

Its beacon is the East Brother Light Station, with a fully functional lighthouse, over 130 years old, which, now, also functions as a bed & breakfast inn and a unique location for a summer afternoon getaway.

In the mid-1800s, it was determined a lighthouse was needed to safely guide ships through the two-and-a-half mile waterway that connected San Francisco and the Pacific Ocean with Stockton, Sacramento and Vallejo’s Mare Island Navy Yard. In 1873, the East Brother Light Station was commissioned by the federal government in order to prevent vessels from straying off course in the dark or in the fog. East Brother’s lighthouse was built with six rooms and an attached rectangular light tower. The station also included a separate fog signal building, workshop, fresh water tanks, wharf and boathouse.

But it almost met its demise in the late 1960s, when the Coast Guard equipped the lighthouse with an automatic rotating beacon to cut staffing and maintenance costs.

Since the automated beacon no longer required the Island be manned, it was announced that the old buildings would be demolished and a steel or concrete tower would be installed in their place to house the light. However, a group of Richmond residents vowed to save the beloved, old landmark. In 1971, East Brother Light Station was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. The station was saved from the wrecking ball; but, no funds were available to restore or maintain the buildings. Throughout the 1970s, the structures fell into disrepair. The only regular visitors were Coast Guard crews sent to check the light and fog signals.

Eight years later, East Brother Light Station, Inc., a non-profit citizens group was formed in Richmond, whose purpose was restoring the old buildings. They wanted a landmark that Richmond residents could visit and be proud of. The citizens’ group raised money through private donations and matching government grants, and with the help of hundreds of volunteers, the equivalent of $300,000 was put into the project. Rehabilitation and restoration was completed by 1980. Even the powerful diaphone fog horn - originally installed in 1934 - still honks with the trademark two-tone bee-ooh sound.

Volunteers continue to help with East Brother Lighthouse Station restoration projects. As a non-profit organization, East Brother Light Station, Inc. is always looking for more volunteers because maintaining a lighthouse is a never-ending task, and there are needs for everything from cleaning windows to diesel mechanics. Any other maintenance costs are covered by day-use fees — and by operating as one of the most unique bed and breakfast inns in the Bay Area.

When overnight guests step onto East Brother Island, they take a step back in to maritime history. Small groups are welcomed by the innkeepers and shown to the parlor for champagne and hors d’oeuvres. As the sun begins to set, guests are welcome to ascend the spiral staircase to the lighthouse tower to catch a view of the shimmering San Francisco skyline.
Five rooms are available, with four having been former keeper’s quarters, and they are located in the historic lighthouse, itself. Each room, named for its view, has unique décor and a queen-size bed. One smaller and more rustic room, known as Walter’s Quarters, is in the fog signal building. Being apart from the main building, it offers a unique sense of privacy.

Once settled in, it’s up to the guest to indulge their preferences. Some prefer quiet and comfort, reading, relaxing or being social. Others may indulge their maritime curiosity by watching a parade of sailboats, tugs or tankers. Some guests browse the library collection of books and historical files about former lighthouse keepers, shipwrecks and sea stories. On cold winter nights, a fire in the wood stove keeps everyone cozy.

A gourmet multi-course dinner is one highlight of the evening. It is served for all guests at the same time, in the dining room, a good time for guests to get to know one another. Although the menus and accompanying wines change seasonally, some favorites include citrus-glazed Rock Cornish game hen or beef and salmon Wellington in a puff pastry served with a dill hollandaise sauce. Breakfast is no less a work of culinary art. Early birds are rewarded with piping hot popovers and a full breakfast is served in the dining room for all guests, which often includes a house specialty, Lighthouse French Toast Soufflé.

Those who want to visit the Island, for a picnic or to fish or just for an interesting excursion, without staying the night, can take a day trip on Saturdays during the summer months, beginning in May. For $15 per person, including boat transportation, visitors can spend about four hours on the island. Innkeepers, Katy and Elan Stewart, also provide guided tours of the facility.

Winter is also a nice time to visit.

Tom Butt, president of the non-profit board since 1979 and a Richmond City councilman says, Winter is my favorite time at the Island. Enveloped in fog or cozy by a fire, with the foghorn sounding faintly in the background, you are truly transported to another time and another place. There is nothing like this anywhere else in the Bay Area.

The full history of the light station and the many colorful characters that have worked as keepers is available in the book, East Brother, History of an Island Light Station, which may be accessed, along with other information, online: www.ebls.org

Just off the Richmond shore, East Brother Light Station can feel like a world away. Photo by: Joel Williams

Although saved from the wrecking ball in 1971 the historic lighthouse fell into disrepair in the 1970’s before restoration efforts began in 1979. Photo Courtesy of East Brother Light Station, Inc.