BREW REVIEW

Gordon Biersch: Born From Tradition

Gordon Biersch is located on the Embarcadero almost directly under the Bay Bridge. Photo by Joel Williams

By Joel Williams
Published: April, 2007 

San Francisco’s Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant is located literally in the shadow of the Bay Bridge in the historic Hillsboro Coffee building where Harrison Street meets the waterfront. Amazing views looking up and out at the main span can be enjoyed from the popular balcony that runs along Embarcadero Street.

Dan Gordon and Dean Biersch opened the first Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant in Palo Alto in 1988. Now, there are 30 locations throughout the United States. Beers made at Gordon Biersch are, mainly, traditional German lagers, with the exception of the Hefewiezen, which is made with traditional German ale yeast. The reason I emphasize the word traditional is because Gordon Biersch, unlike many other brewpubs, puts the emphasis on creating beers that exemplify the style they represent. This is not to say other brewpubs don’t create traditional beers, but most small breweries have at least one or two examples of beers that stretch the guidelines of the beer style, if not completely throwing them out the window. Not at Gordon Biersch, and this approach suits Head Brewer John Tucci just fine. He’s been with Gordon Biersch for nine years and says: I didn’t get into brewing to experiment. I got into brewing to brew the best beer I can possibly brew. I think there’s only one way to do that, and that is by repetition and consistency.

Tucci’s has a background well suited to the Gordon Biersch brewing philosophy. He lived in Germany for six years where he completed the state run Brewer Apprenticeship Program of Bavaria, an extensive three-year-long, hands-on brewing program that included working as a journeyman at the famous Paulaner Brewery in Munich. It’s pretty self explanatory how I wound up here and why, Tucci said. When I heard about Gordon Biersch brewing all German lagers and ales, the natural fit for me was to make the beers I’d been brewing for the last few years.

Tucci started at Gordon Biersch’s original Palo Alto location in 1998 as the Head Brewer. Four years later, he moved to the San Francisco location and was made a Regional Supervisor. When he’s away, Gordon Biersch is in the very capable hands of fellow brewer Rich Higgins. Both Tucci and Higgins joined me on the scenic patio for a relaxing tasting session, one I couldn’t help imagine would be similar to drinking a flight of tasters at a small German pub.

The first beer I tried was the most unique and, yet, strikingly familiar German Hefeweizen style. This distinctive style is known for the slight banana, clove and bubble gum flavors that the traditional Bavarian Weizen yeast imparts on the finished product. I thoroughly enjoyed this unfiltered beer and found it to be as good as any imported Hefeweizen I have ever tried.

The Schwarzbier (black beer) is a bit deceptive at first glance. When most people see a dark beer they think it will be heavy and strong. However Tucci referred to this as their black Pilsner, and the Schwarzbier was actually the lightest beer on the menu that day. This black lager has a delicate body and a very clean finish. Those that are scared of dark beers will be well rewarded if they take the opportunity to taste this beer.

I also sampled several fine examples of traditional German lagers, including a crisp, clean Pilsner and a Marzen with a slightly sweet, malty finish. The Blond Bock is a strong lager with more hops added to balance the extra malt needed to create this bold brew; and, the Brewers Select was a Helles (bright), from an original recipe of Tucci’s, which is a moderately hopped pale lager, and quite smooth and light.

The bottom line is: if you have to have a highly hopped West Coast IPA, Gordon Biersch is probably not the place for you. But if the idea of trying an excellent line of true German lagers and ales at a beautiful waterfront location sounds appealing, Gordon Biersch should be on the top of your list of places to check out.

Patrons on Gordon Biersch’s popular waterfront balcony enjoy a spectacular view of the Bay Bridge. Photo by Joel Williams