Moylan’s Serves Up Classy Brew

When Brenden Moylan opened Marin Brewing Company in the Larkspur Landing Shopping Center back in 1989, there were only around 100 brewpubs across the country. Six years later, as both his business and the industry grew dramatically, he wanted to open another one.

Published: December, 2007 

But, he decided to do a couple of things differently the second time around. Not only was he determined to own the property, he also wanted to build out the brewery to his specifications, instead of having to adapt an existing building to his needs.

With the opening of his first brewpub, Moylan had moved his family from San Francisco to Novato so he could raise his two children in a small-town atmosphere. This is where his search for a new location started and ended. He found a spot just off Highway 101, at the Rowland Way exit north of Highway 37; the location had a nearby theater and corporate offices that would help provide a lunch crowd. According to Moylan, My adopted hometown was the natural choice for a brewery, and he aptly christened it Moylan’s Brewery & Restaurant.

Moylan’s, which officially opened in 1995, was a $3.5 million project, complete with two grain silos for storing the malted barley. Novato’s only brewpub features a 57-foot bar and has a dart room with a fireplace and library; the library shelves are filled with brewing books and magazines from Moylan’s personal collection. There is a very large dining area, and, as Moylan emphasizes, We are a family restaurant where it is okay to bring the kids.

When asked if there is a big difference between his two breweries, Moylan said, They’re similar in that they both make bold assertive beers. He went on to tell me that the two breweries intentionally use different yeast strains, which yields different flavor profiles for similar styles that may be found at both breweries. Additionally, the brewmasters at each location are encouraged to put their own touches on their beers to add to the individuality of the finished products.

When I called Brendan Moylan to interview him for this article, he invited me to his Brewmaster Dinner event, which featured Moylan’s beers and was hosted by the brewmaster at Moylan’s, Denise Jones. The event took place at yet another of Moylan’s establishments, Noonan’s Bar & Grille in Larkspur Landing.

The exquisite five-course meal had a different Moylan beer paired with each food item. Jones’ knowledge of both the beers and how they were matched with each course was phenomenal. The ahi tuna appetizer was paired with the just-released White Christmas Witbeer. Jones freely admitted this is a bastardized version of the style, as she used lager yeast instead of the traditional Belgian-style yeast this year. The resulting clean flavor makes this beer much more approachable to mainstream beer lovers.

The Moylander Double IPA, which just earned a Silver Medal at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival (GABF), was paired with a slightly spicy vegetable soup. Jones noted that highly hopped beers work well with spicy food because the dominant bitter hop flavors of the beer serve to balance the spiciness of the food. The Moylanfest Oktoberfest Marzen, with its rich malt flavor, was well paired with a roasted Niman Ranch pork roulade. But the best was saved for last.

For dessert, a trio of rare and special barrel-aged beers was served with an apple and triple brie turnover. First, there was a version of Old Blarney Barleywine that had been blended with oak chips and soaked in an extra-rare Crown Royal for six months. The second offering was a fine bourbon barrel-aged version of Ryan O’Sullivan’s Imperial Stout. The last beer of the night was a special adaptation of the 2007 GABF Gold Medal-winning Hopsickle Imperial Ale, which was blended with freshly harvested hops and aged in an old Chardonnay barrel.

Although only very small quantities of these extraordinary beers were made, they will all be available on a rotating basis during the holiday season; when each beer will be served is up to the whim of brewmaster Jones. I recommend that you stop by often and try them all!

Moylan’s Brewery & Restaurant has been very successful over the last 12 years and has a loyal following of North Marin beer connoisseurs. Most of Moylan’s beers are also available in 22-ounce bottles at the brewery and in stores across 12 states. As luck would have it, while I was writing this piece, my brother in Chicago called and told me he found Moylander Double IPA in a local store. To see what all the fuss is about, check your local craft brew store, or, better yet, stop by the restaurant in Novato. You won’t be disappointed.