Just as rugged and beautiful as Big Sur, but much farther off the radar, the Mendocino-Sonoma Coast is the perfect place to slow down and decompress. Clock out early on a Friday and turn off the cell phone—it’s Mendonoma Time.
Four small red-roofed buildings provide overnight rooms and spectacular views at Point Arena Lighthouse
By weekendsherpa.com
Published: March, 2008
Ranch with a View
Perched on the edge of the continent, Sea Ranch Lodge is upscale-rustic—an all-wood architectural masterpiece so in synch with its surroundings that it’s nearly camouflaged by nature. A late winter visit is like stumbling upon a little retreat to call your own. Lounging is an art here: all but one of the 20 rooms have ocean views; the inviting lobby has a stone fireplace and cushy leather couches; and the outdoor Adirondack chairs are sweet for sunset viewing. Dinner at the lodge offers a choice between fine dining and a hearty bar menu (the burger and fries are recommended), but the real highlight is the complimentary gourmet breakfast in the small dining room overlooking the Pacific. Enjoy premium coffee and delicious daily specials such as French toast with fresh blueberries and whipped cream, all while sitting beside huge windows with uninterrupted views of the rugged cliffs and ocean. With the soaring views, bottomless coffees, and tasty eats, don’t be surprised if your day starts after noon.
Oh, the Places You’ll Go: In a rare and vast departure from Sea Ranch’s upscale-barn motif, The Sea Ranch Chapel—with its swooping roof and off-center design—looks like it was plucked from a Dr. Seuss book. Take a seat on a wooden bench inside and admire the beautiful stained glass.
Located at the northern end of Sea Ranch, on the eastern side of Highway 1.
BONUS: Right outside the lodge doors is a 10-mile bluffside trail that makes beach hopping a leisure sport. With the ocean on one side and the distinctive Sea Ranch homes on the other, be on the lookout for a Do Not Disturb sign after a couple of miles; this signals an official seal preserve. If you look below, you’ll spot a large cove where the seals will most likely be doing their own seaside lounging.
Sea Ranch Lodge, 60 Sea Walk Dr., Sea Ranch; 707-785-2371. Rooms start at $230 per night for the weekend; $169 for mid-week. Very dog-friendly!
Alternative lodging: The Mar Vista Cottages north of Sea Ranch, located on the Banana Belt (so called for the lack of summer fog), are simple and comfy; the food from their onsite organic garden is delicious. Weekend rates start at $155 per night.
To the Point
Twenty-seven miles up the road from Sea Ranch, Point Arena Lighthouse (perhaps best known for its role in the 1992 movie Forever Young) is built on a finger of land that juts precariously into the Pacific. The lighthouse, two miles down a small road from the town of Point Arena, is accompanied by four small red-roofed buildings that provide overnight rooms for a bona fide beacon experience. Climbing the 145 spiraling stairs up the lighthouse offers spectacular views; at the top, a staffer spins tales that illuminate the history of this storied spot.
TIP: On the drive back to the Sea Ranch region—at mile-marker 10.50—there’s an unnamed pullout on the western side of the highway that leads to a perfect whale-watching parking area. In cold weather, stay in the car with the heat on and your eyes peeled for blow spouts. (Bring binoculars.)
Point Arena Lighthouse, 45500 Lighthouse Rd., Point Arena; 707-882-2777. Admission is $5; open everyday from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Discovery Channel
Half the fun of exploring the Mendonoma area is cruising the coast and making spontaneous stops along the way. Here are three we liked:
Down-to-Earth Drinking: It’s not flashy or fancy, which is exactly why the Annapolis Winery is worth a visit. Located on a hilltop farm a quarter mile down a gravel road, the winery is Basil and Barbara Scalabrini’s dream. The couple started making wine in their basement in Sausalito more than 20 years ago, then transferred their passion to the Sonoma coastal hills. Enjoy the delicious fruits of their labor; tastings are free. One to try: the Ménage à Trois—a blend of three varietals. Sassy.
Annapolis Winery, 26055 Soda Springs Rd., Annapolis; 707-886-5460. Tasting room open everyday from 12:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.
Rack ‘Em Up: Bowling Ball Beach’s namesake can be seen only if you arrive at low tide; then giant boulders emerge from the water, resembling bowling balls in an alley. The trail down to the beach is currently washed out, but the bluffs above the beach still offer a nice vantage point at any time.
The beach is 10.5 miles north of the town of Gualala. Park at the western pullout just north of Schooner Gulch River on Highway 1, look for the sign that says Park Facing South. There are two trailheads; take the less obvious northern trail, veer right at the fork, and walk five minutes to bluff.
Only at low tide does Bowling Ball Beach reveal the reason for its name. Photo courtesy of Jon Klein/North Coast Artists
