My friends were wondering how long I could refrain before I would dedicate a column to my favorite form of water transportation: the gondola. Yes, it would be a difficult commute to San Francisco, but practicality isn’t everything (besides, someone else would be rowing). With beauty, history, craftsmanship and a hint of luxury hiding in its velvet seat cushions, the gondola deserves a closer look.
By Christine Cordi
Published: July, 2000
My friends were wondering how long I could refrain before I would dedicate a column to my favorite form of water transportation: the gondola. Yes, it would be a difficult commute to San Francisco, but practicality isn’t everything (besides, someone else would be rowing). With beauty, history, craftsmanship and a hint of luxury hiding in its velvet seat cushions, the gondola deserves a closer look.
The gondola is said to have been born back in the year 1094 as an ideal way of weaving through Venice’s intricate network of shallow, intersecting canals. Composed of eight different woods, cherry and mahogany among them, its 36 foot length, flat underside and asymmetrical hull weigh a hand-crafted 1100 pounds. Not unlike some Americans today with cars, Venetians of old competed with each other to see who could have the most eye-catching (expensive) gondola. The highly practical Republic of Venice realized that vast sums were being poured into decoration instead of more worthwhile commercial and national pursuits. In 1562 it ended the gondola competitions in an abrupt manner by passing a law ordering all gondolas to be painted black. Equality then reigned since all black gondolas looked exactly like one another. But the ever wily Venetians saw advantages to this situation. Soon they invented the prototype of Venetian blinds, which when placed inside the felze, or carriage top enclosing a passenger compartment within the gondola, rendered that person invisible to the outside world. Since most Venetian homes at the time had a secondary entrance by water, the gondola greatly facilitated incognito amorous assignations on land or in gondola, as well as nefarious deeds. The gondolier was trusted not to report what he saw and this secrecy was strictly enforced by his fellow gondoliers.
Time has brought much change. Venetian gondolas of today in great part transport just camera laden tourists ogling the local landmarks. Gondolas number 500 instead of the 14,000 of the 18th Century. Gone forever is the felze and the family gondolier. However, gondoliers are still a proud lot. They have to complete a ten-year apprenticeship which is only open to natives of Venice. And their operatic song and cries, once giving inspiration to Richard Wagner, today still fill the Venetian air. The sinuous black swan form of the gondola also remains the same, along with its smooth walnut oarlock or forcola, and the brass decoration of its prow which represents the parishes of Venice. A gondola ride today is as lovely as I imagine it was centuries ago. Somehow you glide over the water, with just the faintest sound of an oar in the background. All the better to concentrate on conversing, observing or just dreaming. I heartily recommend it. If not in Venice, then in Vegas, Naples, California, or closest of all, Lake Merritt. v
