Editor-at-Large Mary Swift takes us on a whirlwind tour of Tiburon, that lovely anti-tourist trap darling of a waterfront town, and its diverse joys.
Published: October, 2004
Many travel by ferry to Tiburon to take a quick look around and have lunch while enjoying the Million Dollar views. One can’t but notice from the moment they get off the ferry there are many restaurants to choose from all within walking distance to the docks. The town buildings are so quaint, filled with galleries and unique shops with such excellent quality merchandise that it takes time to really enjoy browsing through the three shopping areas. On the hill above town and all along the water’s edge are historical buildings, some dating back to the 1870’s plus many interesting sites.
It may be possible to sample the food at many of the fine and pleasant casual restaurants, see all the interesting galleries, sights and shops, but to do so in an hour or even a day, would miss the key element that makes Tiburon such a special place. Grace. It is a city that has been able to establish a pace that is ambling and elegant. No rushing, no crowds, clean air and warm and friendly people who smile in passing. People do not rush about in Tiburon - they stroll. They take the time for a cup of cappuccino at the café on the corner. After enjoying one of Tiburon’s many restaurants for breakfast, lunch or dinner try a stop for desert. Be it the bakery, a bit of heavenly hand made fudge or an ice cream in Paradise, there are options in Tiburon. People walk, bike or jog to the water’s edge but the place does not bustle like other tourist-type cities in that push about Zoom-Zoom fashion. Just the ride over on the ferry sets the mood to take a breath and enjoy life for a moment. In the Mediterranean climate without any evening insects, people can enjoy not only the million dollar views from indoors, they can enjoy the outdoors year round. Their best weather of the year is here, in October.
October 1st begins with a Friday Night Party on Main Street. The whole downtown is throwing a classic ‘block party,’ blocking all traffic on the one-block portion of Main Street, behind the waterfront businesses. Restaurants in the neighborhood bring out tables providing special fare and drinks. Participants are welcomed to bring their own picnic. Old fashioned fun, kept simple and friendly, seems to typify the spirit of new attitude of Tiburon. Just come and enjoy the live music and gathering of the community that will be filling the streets. Mid September to mid October the Friday Night parties are held from 6-9 but people begin to mingle earlier to visit shops that are staying open for the event. Many shops on ‘Ark Row,’ just around the corner from the big party, are also staying open for those who want to wander, with less noise, in the warm evenings.
Many new residents with children have been drawn to the area by the local award winning schools and the children friendly atmosphere. New signs dot Main Street that depict the historical views of the same streets allowing visitors and natives alike to understand and appreciate both the changes and the efforts to retain many of the unique historical sites. Ed Zelinsky, who sadly passed away on September 23, 2004, was tireless in his efforts to preserve much of the quaint historical character of this once-bawdy railroad town. Right up until the end, Ed was a part of the committee working to install the new signs depicting the historical nature of Tiburon.
To help visitors catch the flavor of Tiburon, there are 2 hotels in the downtown area that encourage a more leisurely visit. Each is like a resort. The Tiburon Lodge just changed hands to now be a part of Larkspur Landing, a boutique hotel group, who have plans to make a few changes. They are not openly specific about which is to change first. Rumors suggest the restaurant may see changes, but those are only rumors. They are making careful plans for their new investment in improvements. It is nice now and clearly will be getting better. Of the 137 rooms, 33 rooms have whirlpool spas plus there is a pool in the central garden courtyard. It is so warm in the wind-protected central court that the padded lounge chairs call out to all who pass, to take a moment and just relax.
To stay in town is one way to enjoy Tiburon’s many attractions because Tiburon is a place to enjoy over and over again. There are many interesting places to visit. St Hillary’s church, built in 1888 to give the rowdy rail workers a bit of religion, and has been preserved. It is a beautiful place for weddings or even a picnic overlooking the town and the Bay. The Lyford House was built in 1876 by the original owners of the entire Peninsula. China Cabin was the social saloon on the last of the passenger sailing ships scrapped just a few years after its construction by the changing times. There is a Train and Ferry Terminal from 1884 and all are part of the Historical society. Spring through summer they are open Wednesdays and weekends, but can be opened by appointment for groups. There are scenic walking, bike and blade trails past Blacky’s Pasture that run along the edge of the Peninsula of Tiburon and Richardson Bay. In downtown there are benches just to idle and enjoy the view.
Shopping on quaint Main Street, Ark Row and the Boardwalk Center are all within walking distance to the Ferry docks. The shops and galleries include many art galleries, fine home décor such as the gallery of Ruth and a store that supports African artists and communities of Zimbabwe. The art is colorful, touchable and finely executed. One of the newest shops on Main St is Tails of Tiburon. There are fine men and women’s clothes and a store full of hats. Sam offers beautiful hand crafted Persian rugs and art for many years. “The people have always been so good to me here. I love it.” He said. Watermark New and Used Books is for sale because they are retiring. They are just one of the many changes in recent months including 5 new businesses. Among them is a Mexican restaurant. There is a candy store whose fudge is worth the trip alone. Chic to sweet can be found in Tiburon.
Giftique is a shop full of cards and all that is needed to gift wrap presents, once found. The owner of Giftique, Roxanne, said, “The cards cost a little but the therapy from reading them is free. I love to see people laugh when they read cards or look at our gifts.” She also carries an array of gifts for all ages including a line of baby clothes. When asked, she said, “We have many new moms and grandmothers in the area. Someone is always having a baby or a birthday.” Her clocks start customers laughing from outside the shop and there are many more fun and useful things inside.
While exploring, one may get thirsty. Stop in to the only wine tasting room in Tiburon. The first 6 tastes are free. Windsor Vineyards wine tasting room has been in Tiburon for 45 years. Windsor is ranked as the No 2 winery in all of California due to their consistent quality and wide variety of award winning wines and champagnes. They offer personalized labels as well as holiday labels for their fine Sonoma wines.
There is a lovely and very modern library, next to the Town hall, that frequently has art exhibits in its park-like setting which includes a view of St. Hillary’s and pathways to the open lands that crown the hills. Those lands are kept open by active citizens who want all, locals and visitors, to always be able to enjoy the views of Tiburon.
Attractions
Tiburon Tours Meet Next to the Ferry docks (415) 435-5636
Wednesdays and Weekend one-hour walking tours of Historic Tiburon by appointment.
Angel Island Park State Park www.angelisland.com (415) 897-0715
Trails circle the island by fantastic vistas, historic sites of Civil War, WWII forts and a Nike Base.
Angel Island Ferry 21 Main Street www.angelisland.com (415) 435-2131
Take a short ride to Angel Island or the Covey Cove Patrol to SBC Park. They also offer historic and sightseeing tours, on-the-Bay banquets, weddings, dances, parties plus the very popular Sunset cruises.
Lodging-Conference Centers
Tiburon Lodge & Conference Center 1651 Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-3133
137 guest rooms 33 with spas and some with bay views with ample parking just under 2 blocks from the ferry. Relax by the pool or enjoy the restaurant, active with elder hostile groups. They have over 10,000 sq feet of conference space and business support services for events.
Water’s Edge 25 Main Street www.marinehotels.com (877) 789-5999
Boutique hotel with 23 rooms with fireplaces. There are meeting rooms and business support services.
Bay Conference Center 3150 Paradise Drive www.thecity.sfsu.edu/rtces (415) 338-6063
Tiburon-Romberg Center 26-acre site on Paradise Drive is perfect for business and group gatherings. The main meeting room holds 140 plus two room for up to 60ea.
Corinthian Yacht Club Main Street www.cyc.org (415) 435-4812
A landmark on the point since 1912. The Corinthian Yacht Club owns and maintains its own harbor that adds grace and beauty to the town. The active yachting club is a very popular spot for meetings and events.
Restaurants
Caprice Restaurant 2000 Paradise Drive (415) 435-3400
Fine dining for special occasions. The restaurant has the only view of the Golden Gate Bridge in Tiburon.
Carrera’s Vichy Covina 114 Main Street/Lower Ark Row (415) 435-5572
Excellent new Italian restaurant with the feel of home. See our Oct. Bay Crossings Cuisine feature.
Dynasty 1801 Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-6766
Simple to gourmet Chinese fare, pot stickers to lobster with asparagus with a view across the Bay.
Jeannie’s Java The Boardwalk (415) 435-1972
A quiet place for coffee and soul. Jeannie’s is a gathering spot with oversized chairs like a living room.
Mike and Dave’s Café Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-
A good simple American classic for breakfast or a burger.
New Mornings Café Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-
Very Marin for breakfast and lunch only.
Paradise Hamburgers and Ice Cream Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-
For 30 years it has been possible to have a cheese-burger in Paradise. Have lunch, a soda and desert for under $10. They have 32 flavors of ice cream, frozen yogurt and sorbet. Open 7 days a week, this people and dog friendly little place is just 100 yards from the ferry docks.
Quayamas 5 Main Street (415) 435-6300
Gourmet and classic Mexican cuisine next to the Ferry Landing with happy hour tasties from 5-7 M-F.
Rooney’s Café and Grill Main Street (415) 435-0777
A quiet place with simple to elegant dining and a small outdoor garden in back.
Sam’s Anchor Café 27 Main Street (415) 435-4527
Home of the famous Sam’s Burger. Sam’s is the only restaurant with docks to arrive by private yacht.
Servino’s Ristorante 9 Main Street (415) 435-2676
Fine Southern Italian flare and warm trattoria atmosphere indoors and out with stunning views of the Bay
Sweden House 35 Main Street (415) 435-9767
A local hangout serving the best cappuccino and baked goods in town or a very nice lunch in the sun.
Waypoint Pizza 15 Main Street (415) 2619
Former America’s Cup sailor Melissa Purdy and her brother have created a fun place to have pizza.
Sport & Fitness
Demo Sports Tiburon Blvd (415) 435-
Weekend and by appointment rentals of blades and bikes including those with stroller attachment.
Fitness in Tiburon Tiburon Blvd/the Point (415) 435-
Membership or drop in for a warm up or work out with views of the Bay.
Winery
Windsor Vineyards 72 Main Street/Ark Row (415) 435-3113
