Something for Every Taste and Pocketbook
By Graceann Walden
Published: November, 2001
One of the key words constantly used to describe the Bay Area is "diversity." Of course, mostly we mean the rainbow of races and ethnicities that make up our six county community.
But when it comes to dining on the central Wharf in San Francisco, there could be no better word to describe the offerings spread over a half-mile stretch of our Bay-side.
One of the best dining choices is Lapis, a stylish venue located at Pier 33. Years ago, we remember having a drink at this site when it was the Pier Inn, a funky watering hole with a horseshoe-shaped bar and a fabulous view.
Today, tall, modernistic brushed metal doors open to a gorgeous and welcoming interior where ceilings soar, interesting art pieces grace the walls and Bay views stretch forth from the vast expanse of windows.
Chef Thomas Ricci has our heart with his Mediterranean-flavored fare. When it comes to appetizers the selection of Middle Eastern dips is our hands down favorite. The dinner menu brings forth succulent mussels or a velvety tender lamb shank served with fava beans.
At night the restaurant is hip and a little dressy, but lunch for us is the best time to visit because the view is totally visible. Sights include a sea lion, who trolls the waters near the restaurant (because the staff gives him fish scraps), huge tankers and freight carriers gliding by with tug boats pushing them to port and flocks of sea gulls and an occasional pelican.
The lunch menu is also terrific with a lovely gazpacho, a scallop ceviche decorated with confetti of citrus rind and peppers or a rib-sticking grilled corned beef and Swiss cheese on rye sandwich. Another winner is the salad nicoise draped with fresh cured anchovies.
Pastry Chef David Leyva’s dense chocolate torte garnished with figs poached in port is heart-stoppingly delicious.
From the photo of bare-bottomed cowgirls over the bar to the comfortable pier- seating at brunch to the jazz on weekend nights, Pier 23 is down-home San Francisco. On foggy, winter nights, we dig the hot jazz, salsa or reggae and slurp steamy Irish coffees, while snacking on fried calamari. Brunch on the weekends, especially on sunny days, is a bloody Mary festival with wall-to-wall brunch libations and platters of eggs at every table.
Pier 23 is funky, real and inexpensive. But most of all it’s always fun.
Teatro Zinzanni located at Pier 27-29 is a Seattle transplant that has captured San Francisco’s heart. Subtitled: love, chaos and dinner, Teatro Zinzanni is part vaudeville, part circus stunts, part slapstick and features a complete gourmet dinner. The setting is a gorgeous antique tent, where the chaos unfolds, just as the dinner - quite good - is being served.
The latest dinner includes an antipasto platter with madras curry dip and crudite, caramelized onion and Gorgonzola cheese spread, marinated olives; a carrot parsnip soup garnished with a pear cream salad; a classic Caesar salad; and entrees like roasted lamb or a vegetable torta. Coffee and a pecan gateau complete the repast. Don’t be surprised, as we were, when after dessert, the tablecloth is whipped away and a dancer begins tapping on your table. Tickets for the show and dinner don’t come cheap -but are well worth it.
At Pier 7, Waterfront Restaurant owner Al Falchi, unlike many Fisherman Wharf restaurant owners, who have let their seafood eateries get tired and well-worn, spent almost a million dollars re-doing his vintage seafood restaurant. And interestingly what he has created is two restaurants in one.
Downstairs, you can try all the classic San Francisco favorites like cracked crab, crab cakes and cioppino at his Waterfront Café. Plus the Café affords views of San Francisco Bay and the Bay Bridge that are unparalleled. Don’t feel like fish? Then there are Italian pastas, salads, soups, and grilled meats.
Upstairs at the Waterfront Restaurant the décor is contemporary, with accents of Asian antiques and culinary-themed artwork. The menu has evolved to a more conservative, less Asian bent, since the departure of the founding chef. Look for a nice ahi tuna tartare or enjoy a perfect tossed salad with shaved pecorino and an anchovy-balsamic vinaigrette. Although prices for the entrées have climbed upward, they are worth it, especially the steelhead salmon with mussels and artichokes and the beef tenderloin with a sturdy Bordelaise sauce. Save room for anything chocolate for a finale.
