The
Central Waterfront
Something for Every Taste and
Pocketbook
By Graceann Walden
One of the key words
constantly used to describe the Bay Area is "diversity." Of
course, mostly we mean the rainbow of races and ethnicities that make up
our six county community.
But when it comes to
dining on the central Wharf in San Francisco, there could be no better
word to describe the offerings spread over a half-mile stretch of our
Bay-side.
One of the best dining
choices is Lapis, a stylish venue located at Pier 33. Years ago,
we remember having a drink at this site when it was the Pier Inn, a
funky watering hole with a horseshoe-shaped bar and a fabulous view.
Today, tall, modernistic
brushed metal doors open to a gorgeous and welcoming interior where
ceilings soar, interesting art pieces grace the walls and Bay views
stretch forth from the vast expanse of windows.
Chef Thomas Ricci has our
heart with his Mediterranean-flavored fare. When it comes to appetizers
the selection of Middle Eastern dips is our hands down favorite. The
dinner menu brings forth succulent mussels or a velvety tender lamb
shank served with fava beans.
At night the restaurant is
hip and a little dressy, but lunch for us is the best time to visit
because the view is totally visible. Sights include a sea lion, who
trolls the waters near the restaurant (because the staff gives him fish
scraps), huge tankers and freight carriers gliding by with tug boats
pushing them to port and flocks of sea gulls and an occasional pelican.
The lunch menu is also
terrific with a lovely gazpacho, a scallop ceviche decorated with
confetti of citrus rind and peppers or a rib-sticking grilled corned
beef and Swiss cheese on rye sandwich. Another winner is the salad
nicoise draped with fresh cured anchovies.
Pastry Chef David Leyva’s
dense chocolate torte garnished with figs poached in port is heart-stoppingly
delicious.
From the photo of
bare-bottomed cowgirls over the bar to the comfortable pier- seating at
brunch to the jazz on weekend nights, Pier 23 is down-home San
Francisco. On foggy, winter nights, we dig the hot jazz, salsa or reggae
and slurp steamy Irish coffees, while snacking on fried calamari. Brunch
on the weekends, especially on sunny days, is a bloody Mary festival
with wall-to-wall brunch libations and platters of eggs at every table.
Pier 23
is funky, real and inexpensive. But most of all it’s always fun.
Teatro Zinzanni
located at Pier 27-29 is a Seattle transplant that has captured San
Francisco’s heart. Subtitled: love, chaos and dinner, Teatro Zinzanni
is part vaudeville, part circus stunts, part slapstick and features a
complete gourmet dinner. The setting is a gorgeous antique tent, where
the chaos unfolds, just as the dinner - quite good - is being served.
The latest dinner includes
an antipasto platter with madras curry dip and crudite, caramelized
onion and Gorgonzola cheese spread, marinated olives; a carrot parsnip
soup garnished with a pear cream salad; a classic Caesar salad; and
entrees like roasted lamb or a vegetable torta. Coffee and a pecan
gateau complete the repast. Don’t be surprised, as we were, when after
dessert, the tablecloth is whipped away and a dancer begins tapping on
your table. Tickets for the show and dinner don’t come cheap -but are
well worth it.
At Pier 7, Waterfront
Restaurant owner Al Falchi, unlike many Fisherman Wharf restaurant
owners, who have let their seafood eateries get tired and well-worn,
spent almost a million dollars re-doing his vintage seafood restaurant.
And interestingly what he has created is two restaurants in one.
Downstairs, you can try
all the classic San Francisco favorites like cracked crab, crab cakes
and cioppino at his Waterfront Café. Plus the Café affords views of
San Francisco Bay and the Bay Bridge that are unparalleled. Don’t feel
like fish? Then there are Italian pastas, salads, soups, and grilled
meats.
Upstairs at the Waterfront
Restaurant the décor is contemporary, with accents of Asian antiques
and culinary-themed artwork. The menu has evolved to a more
conservative, less Asian bent, since the departure of the founding chef.
Look for a nice ahi tuna tartare or enjoy a perfect tossed salad with
shaved pecorino and an anchovy-balsamic vinaigrette. Although prices for
the entrées have climbed upward, they are worth it, especially the
steelhead salmon with mussels and artichokes and the beef tenderloin
with a sturdy Bordelaise sauce. Save room for anything chocolate for a
finale.
