Libations
MAKER’S MAGIC
By Dianne Boate and Robert Meyer
Mr. Bill Samuels, Jr.
President, Maker’s Mark Distillery
Loretto, Kentucky
Dear Mr. Samuels:
We met briefly a couple of years ago when you hosted a
Maker’s Mark event here in San Francisco at the Waterfront
restaurant on the Embarcadero. It was a dark and stormy
night which did not stop anyone from showing up to drink
their favorite bourbon. You would probably remember my
friend Velma more than me, because she
Tennessee-sweet-talked you out of your Kentucky
red-waxed-covered top hat. I was quiet, not drinking, not a
fan of any whiskey, The Odd Girl Out when it comes to
bourbon.
My partner and I are celebrating a year of
doing a column called LIBATIONS for Bay Crossings, and have
covered vodka, vermouth, sparkling wine, sake, and
Guatemalan rum, things we like to drink. Was I in for
several surprises when we decided to do a two-part article
about whiskey in general and Maker’s Mark in particular.
The first surprise was the fascinating
history of bourbon in this country from Revolutionary times
to Prohibition and beyond. Who knew that George Washington
(a whiskey distiller himself) had Congress authorize a tax
on whiskey that made folks so furious a Whiskey Rebellion
was born? And that it caused a migration of distillers into
the wilderness of what was to become Kentucky? Not only were
these Irish and Scottish immigrants escaping the tax man,
they found gold in the pure iron free water they were used
to back home to make good whiskey. You must be proud that
your great-great-great- great grandfather was one of them.
Between the first surprise and the second,
one day I let my mind wander back to my childhood to my
earliest memory of bourbon. This was after the War, in
Eureka, California.
Since we lived out of town in a dairy
farming community called Elk River, the commute home from my
father’s jewelry store usually included a stop half way, in
a small business district called Bucksport. The big deal
there was the grocery story and restaurant and bar in one
building. Usually after the shopping, into the bar. I was 8
years old and had to sit on a bar stool with my parents,
bored beyond belief. A jukebox can only go so far. I longed
to drive away and escape but did not learn to drive until I
was 10. So I sat and hated it. Principle reason? The smell
of the place. Just like steak houses in New York and other
places, where the meat smell invades the wood, years of
spilled alcoholic beverages will steep itself into a whole
atmosphere already ripe with cigarettes and whiskey (no
wild, wild women.) That these stops kindled regular
arguments and fights between my parents put paid to my
liking beer or bourbon, their drinks of choice. When you are
a kid, unpleasant circumstances can color everything in the
picture.
The second surprise was learning that your
father decided against his own product and dramatically
burned the only recipe that was the family secret formula
for 170 years. His idea of baking breads with different
grain combinations was sheer genius for it told him in the
end that the culprit of the bitter taste he did not like in
bourbon was rye grain.
How interesting that throughout the
history of bourbon making a lot of people would use just
anything to create the beverage. “Five Fingers of Red Eye”
was probably no joking matter! And after Prohibition ended
folks were so eager to get back into business they did not
take much care in producing the product. I think this is
responsible for the evil smell I experienced as a child, and
can only wonder what if……., had your father’s
vision-come-true of Maker’s Mark been on the scene at the
time.
The third surprise is when I finally became brave enough to
try Maker’s Mark; I actually liked it, and in getting over
my prejudice have begun to truly enjoy your product. I even
invented a Maker’s Mark drink and here it is: I took my
favorite proportions to make margaritas and used 2 parts
Maker’s Mark, 1 part lemon juice, and one part Triple Sec,
over ice – delicious!
Your book, MY AUTOBIOGRAPHY, is a great
read because it explains clearly why Maker’s Mark is so
popular. Your choices of grains that are hand- picked,
high-quality corn and winter wheat have a great deal to do
with the taste people love. Your care and attention to every
detail of production shines right out through every bottle.
I did some personal research, and made a call to my friend:
“Syndi, why do you like Maker’s Mark?
“So smooth,” she replied, “and just a hint of sweet. We did
our own taste test, making Manhattans with about three
bourbons and Maker’s Mark was the clear winner!”
To my cousin in Port Townsend, Washington:
“Aggie, I have one simple question – Why do you like Maker’s
Mark?
“I just love the taste of it! In fact, we have become
Maker’s Mark ambassadors and go to every event held in
Seattle. Bill Samuels comes himself! He is the neatest guy!
He wears a top hat covered in red wax, just like the
bottles! We went into the Royal Hawaiian on our vacation
recently. I asked the bartender what the house whiskey was.
When he said it was Maker’s Mark, I could only say “I’ll
have a double.
“Oh, you Myrna Loy creature,
you,” I said.
In closing, my feeling is that we could not have picked a
better product to write about after all I have learned. Your
hands-on, personal approach to every aspect of making
Maker’s Mark, the attention to all details, it is a loving
approach. We all live in a world where small companies are
morphed into Big Business and individuality is going down
the drain. Hats off to you, red wax and all!
Sincerely,
Dianne Boate