Sausalito

The Miwok Indians lived along the shores of San Francisco Bay for centuries in fishing camps and permanent villages. After many years of searching, San Francisco Bay was “discovered” by Francisco Ayala. Ayala chose for his anchorage a spot with a great view on the northern shoreline of San Francisco Bay. He renamed the Indian village Saucelito, which means “little willow,” and claimed it for his European homeland of Spain.

Both Indians and Spanish soldiers are long gone from the busy world of 2004, but romance, peace, and an air of discovery are alive and well in Sausalito. The Mediterranean microclimate perfectly fits with Sausalito’s tile roofs and Spanish or Tuscan look and feel. They are mixed with shops and homes of humble to grand design reflecting the town’s many waves of prosperity and popularity, from Victorian to modern tastes.

At the heart of the town is a lovely park, located near the Ferry landing. Two elephant statues from the 1915 Pan Pacific Fair face the main street of Bridgeway. The park is where San Francisco Bay meets the long but shallow Richardson Bay stretching toward Mt. Tamalpias. Boats must pass close to Sausalito’s shore in Richardson Bay to have water deep enough to slip by rows of yachts and houseboats, which lend a special grace and beauty to the already stunning views.

Sausalito’s colorful history begins as a fishing village, and includes a period as an artist community. Today there are 25 galleries between the center of town and nearby Caledonia Street. Along the main street of Bridgeway and up Princess Street are working artists’ studios and galleries like Tapia. The internationally famous arts on display feature locals as well as artists from all over the world.

Discover fine examples of glass, stone and bronze sculpture, scrimshaw, jewelry and shops like Kachina showing southwestern Indian artwork. Mark Reuben, a famous photographer and purveyor of sport, historical, entertainer and event photography has his Mark Reuben Gallery of Ghirardelli Square and also two galleries in Sausalito on Princess Street. The first displays Mark’s photos of the beauty of California and the other holds many of his 4,000 images of famous people and events, including an autographed shot of Babe Ruth hitting his famous world-record home run, offered at $6,500 (or without the autograph for under $100).

My husband and I spent a few days at the charming Casa Madrona Hotel. It has both contemporary and classic rooms and buildings. Our contemporary room had soft warm colors of red, gold, with dark brown woods plus neutral flooring. Natural cream-colored stone tiles lined the large glass enclosed shower. The oversized sinks and tub built for two were white. The dark brown wooden 4-poster bed frame held a very comfortable mattress topped with a gold coverlet and huge white down pillows. The romantic gold and red divan, with a soft gold throw, was wonderful for reading and relaxing. The huge TV and mini-bar were hidden away in a large wooden entertainment center that housed the ice bucket and coffee maker.

General Manager Eric Halliday, who joined Casa Madrona in September 2003, adds value to charm by offering special pricing and romantic incentives such as roses and spa combination packages, as well as the “Rock” solid tradition of chocolates on the pillow. All of the central hotels of Sausalito offer charming accommodations but we chose the Casa as our casa for its look and the Avanyu Spa. The spa allows the rush, bother, aches and pains of modern life to disappear in an hour or so. Avanyu is a trademark spa found only in Rock Resorts, of which Casa Madrona is a member.

After settling into our room, my husband and I wandered, hand in hand, about the streets of central Sausalito. We looked in on several notable galleries, and stopped for a while to appreciate the European artisan display at Gallery Electra. We particularly enjoyed the depictions of Venice and the art of Poleschi from Italy who paints with drops of color like Jackson Pollack. We marveled at the clean lines of African tribal sculptures shown in Spirit of Stone and laughed at the painting of two shark fins swimming across the flooring toward a judge’s bench, to the bemusement of the jury, which hangs in the window of Art that Makes You Laugh. As the sun set and the wind turned chilly, we headed back toward Casa Madrona.

Midday, we stopped at Mollie Stones Market for hand-crafted crackers and cheese. On our walk-about earlier in the afternoon, we sampled a few wines and purchased an award-winning wine from Baccus Venus, located south of Poggio’s.

Poggio’s Italian Caffe, located in the Casa Madrona building on the ground level, is the newest of several excellent options in town for fine dining. It is owned and operated by partners Executive Chef Chris Hernandez and restaurateur Larry Mendel. Larry recently retired as the head of Il Fornaio to focus on Poggio’s. Their care and dedication shows in the décor, service and food.

We tried the house-created fizzy water, hot fresh rosemary and sesame rolls, an herbed goat cheese salad, and ordered two sumptuous entrées. As we enjoyed our meal, we listened to soft Italian music mixed with the hum of quiet conversations and gentle laughter coming other guests. The menu changes every day to fit the best selection of fresh ingredients available. My meal was grilled local lamb chops with roasted eggplant. My husband thoroughly enjoyed his roasted pork dinner, plus half my meal. After we finished our meal and a bit more wandering about to enjoy the night lights along the docks and walk off a bit of the meal, we returned to our warm Casa room for a night cap of red wine, cheese and crackers, with a bit of apple for dessert.

Avanyu Spa’s public and main entrance stairway is next to the front door of Poggio’s. A graceful fountain that is designed as a stepped waterfall runs along side it. Mother’s Day is the perfect opportunity to treat your wife or mother to treatments at the Avanyu Spa. It’s a treat that won’t be forgotten quickly. It is not necessary to stay at the hotel to enjoy the Spa; indeed, locals get a 10% discount. (See the Avanyu ad in this issue for May Specials.)

When I booked my appointment, a full hour massage seemed like a long time. I changed my mind soon enough. A short elevator ride delivered me to the Spa, where spacious showers, private steam room, rose water treatments, honey wraps, special washes, and many other options beckoned. Spas like this should come with signs “Warning! Spa treatments may become a healthful habit.”

After my massage, I floated out to visit Dwight Myllenbeck and wife Merry, who purchased the Harbor Shop that carries nautical things and seaside wear. They have kept the local gathering spot for refreshments and reading at the back of the store intact along with their dangerously attractive hat display. After a very pleasant chat with Dwight, we wandered along the docks looking at the many beautiful yachts.

As the day’s shadows grew long, we climbed the stairs opposite the central park and fountain to the Alta Mira Bed and Breakfast to meet the new manager Tom Cole. (See sidebar)

For our last night, we chose our favorite seafood restaurant in town, Scoma’s of Sausalito.

Seated at a window table, we were able to watch the lights come on in the City across the Bay. The Victorian building was originally “Lange’s Launches” in 1890, providing tugboat and ferry service. “Pop Lange” later added a bait business, selling fresh crab and madeup sandwiches for party cruises. Scoma’s became a restaurant under the leadership of the San Francisco legend and patriarch Al Scoma and his family. Since that day, the view, along with fresh, beautifully prepared seafood and classic Italian dishes, keeps Scoma’s humming along at full capacity most days of the week.

The waitress was kind and a bit amused at having to come back three times for our order, so lulled into distraction were we by Scoma’s warm atmosphere and stunning Bay view. My husband’s sizzling Halibut dinner arrived, pulling our full attention to Scoma’s fine fare. I’d chosen an appetizer combination plate of of fresh oysters, steamed prawns, smoked salmon and two crab cakes of size for dinner. We had no room for their tempting desserts.

Strolling back we passed the No Name Bar, pausing for a moment to listen to a local person playingacoustic guitar and singing. Walking on we heard the splash of the fountain and finally were greeted by the soft melodic Italian music as we passed Poggio’s just before turning in.